New to this

#1
Hello
I recently managed to get a few razors from an antique store that require a bit of work which if like to try myself.
Ive been researching and watching videos and think i could do it okay but i have a few questions to ask the pros.
Firstly in the uk wheres best to get the materials? Ie the wet and dry in the grits needed, pinning kits and scale materials both acrylic and wood.
Also i know about rubbing down preferably with a cork but what about the jimps on the spine? How do you clean them up properly?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as i really want to make a nice job so all i need to do in future is send off for honing.
 
#2
Hello
I recently managed to get a few razors from an antique store that require a bit of work which if like to try myself.
Ive been researching and watching videos and think i could do it okay but i have a few questions to ask the pros.
Firstly in the uk wheres best to get the materials? Ie the wet and dry in the grits needed, pinning kits and scale materials both acrylic and wood.
Also i know about rubbing down preferably with a cork but what about the jimps on the spine? How do you clean them up properly?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as i really want to make a nice job so all i need to do in future is send off for honing.
@shaunwistow has just undertaken a couple of jobs like this, I'm sure he would be able to give you some pointers. P.
 
#3
Cheers Paul, I'm no expert in this but here's my thread http://theshavingroom.co.uk/community/index.php?threads/taylors-eye-witness-sheffield-sr.45118/

Wet & Dry was picked up from local car paint stockist I'm sure you'll have one nearby. Jumps I used a brass brush & used WD40. I also bought a set of very small files. On the razor I used WD40 with W&D paper up to about 600 grit. After that I used metal polish when going up the grades to 2000.

I sent mine away for fitting the scales back on & honing.

I look forward to your restoration thread.
 
#4
Thank you @Blademonkey and @shaunwistow ill go to my local wilco motor spares and see if they have some. What metal polish do you use? And what do you use for buffing and polishing? Id rather not use power tools at the moment. Ill also be sending off for honing and possibly the scales but id like to try to make them myself.
I done my first unpinning in just 10 mins woth no damage to the scales even though ill be throwing them, i thought it would be good practise. I did just do the hinge pin though but may do the wedge end too for extra practise.
 
#5
Thank you @Blademonkey and @shaunwistow ill go to my local wilco motor spares and see if they have some. What metal polish do you use? And what do you use for buffing and polishing? Id rather not use power tools at the moment. Ill also be sending off for honing and possibly the scales but id like to try to make them myself.
I done my first unpinning in just 10 mins woth no damage to the scales even though ill be throwing them, i thought it would be good practise. I did just do the hinge pin though but may do the wedge end too for extra practise.
Autosol for polishing and cotton cloths for putting on and polishing off.
Jobs a good un :) P.
 
#6
Thank you @Blademonkey and @shaunwistow ill go to my local wilco motor spares and see if they have some. What metal polish do you use? And what do you use for buffing and polishing? Id rather not use power tools at the moment. Ill also be sending off for honing and possibly the scales but id like to try to make them myself.
I done my first unpinning in just 10 mins woth no damage to the scales even though ill be throwing them, i thought it would be good practise. I did just do the hinge pin though but may do the wedge end too for extra practise.
Try & find an auto paint supplier as they stock all grades & about 15p per sheet. Wilco will prob not have many grades & be loads more (my opinion). No power tools used at all. Fingers & elbow grease & plenty of WD40. No buffing done, the finish I achieved was from going through the grades 400 800 1000 1200 1500 2000. I used liquid polish that I use on my car exhaust tips. (Adams polishes). I'm sure most metal polishes will work fine.

The guy who honed it gave it a final polish (I think) on a buffing wheel.
 
#8
Thank you ill try to find who that is as it sounds like it will be a much better place to try than wilco then. One last thing is some of the razors i bought have some etching on them such as ‘the royal navy razor’ which i wiuld like to keep would the sanding effect this?
Is it etched into the blade or is it more like printed on? If it's etched you will have some wiggle room. If the area around the etching isn't rusty then use some electrical tape to protect the etching. I suppose it depends whether you want a very shiny razor or keep the restoration as minimal as possible. At the end of the day it's only the edge that does the work.
 
#9
Thank you ill try to find who that is as it sounds like it will be a much better place to try than wilco then. One last thing is some of the razors i bought have some etching on them such as ‘the royal navy razor’ which i wiuld like to keep would the sanding effect this?
Yes it would , if you want to keep the etching you don't want to be sanding with anything, a light polish with metal Polish by hand and it should be ok but I'm no expert so if in doubt leave it out! :) P.
 
#10
Unfortunately I went ahead and started but there was rust on the etching so started over it a little bit to get the worst then worked around it. So far it's looking okay some deep pitting, and some dark patches that don't seem to want to come out. Would you continue or would you start to go up the grits now? Hopefully the pictures will attach. Also this was with 150 grit as I found some in the back of the shed. One paint shop only sells to trade and another which is a bit of a journey sells some separate sheets but mainly packs of 25 for £42.
 
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