Shaving with an SE Wedge Blade

What type of lapping film do you guys use. Diamond or Aluminum oxide? Also suggested micron sizes. This will be for my Rolls and when i get another wedge single.

Thanks in advance.

Tom
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I am Learning to use Aluminium Oxide Lapping Film..The Diamond is more popular and easier to get in the USA..Get the stuff that's not (PSA) sticky Backed..I am using 12 Mic for Setting the Bevel but I am going to get some 15 to start with ..So I would suggest..15, 5, 3, 1 & 0.5.....You can Finish on the 1 for polishing though until you get used to it and go onto leather from there..That's all you need unless you are going for a Restoration or Repair Job in which case you would use something like 30 or maybe even Coarser...:p

Billy
 
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I am Learning to use Aluminium Oxide Lapping Film..The Diamond is more popular and easier to get in the USA..Get the stuff that's not (PSA) sticky Backed..I am using 12 Mic for Setting the Bevel but I am going to get some 15 to start with ..So I would suggest..15, 5, 3, 1 & 0.5.....You can Finnish on the 1 for polishing though until you get used to it and go onto leather from there..That's all you need unless you are going for a Restoration or Repair Job in which case you would use something like 30 or maybe even Coarser...:p

Billy

Thanks. Billy

Will get some oxide in those grits.
 
The rolls can be made shave ready using the built in hone and strop. The most common problem I found is proper force is not being applied to the blade. One can carefully disassemble the friction clip assembly and clean the friction pad and remove all debris and oils. The pad is very delicate and will snap quickly be careful doing this. I experimented and also found the you can score lightly the brass bar length wise with 800 grit sand paper. This will give the pad more grab (friction) if needed.

When honing push or pull quickly but go slow when reversing directions (do not slap the blade on the hone... it will chip / crack the hone) Do 20 to 30 laps. When stropping use a fine strop paste. Try 60 brisk laps. Try a rhythm of saying "lather = one lap" Then test the blade. If need be 30 more strop laps, test and repeat 30 more if needed.
 
The rolls can be made shave ready using the built in hone and strop. The most common problem I found is proper force is not being applied to the blade. One can carefully disassemble the friction clip assembly and clean the friction pad and remove all debris and oils. The pad is very delicate and will snap quickly be careful doing this. I experimented and also found the you can score lightly the brass bar length wise with 800 grit sand paper. This will give the pad more grab (friction) if needed.

When honing push or pull quickly but go slow when reversing directions (do not slap the blade on the hone... it will chip / crack the hone) Do 20 to 30 laps. When stropping use a fine strop paste. Try 60 brisk laps. Try a rhythm of saying "lather = one lap" Then test the blade. If need be 30 more strop laps, test and repeat 30 more if needed.
The Rolls System will Not bring back a Blade that's been neglected or been allowed to loose its edge..It was never designed for that..The System will make a Blade Shave ready that's already has a Decent Edge..The blade in that condition needs honed outside the system..There is No Bones about That..o_O

On the Subject of Friction I was talking to Slash McCoy who is very Knowledgeable about this just last week..The Rolls System as Ingenious as it is it actually puts far too much pressure on the blade to give it the Keenest of Edges..Here is the thing..It was designed this way to offer the average Joe a System where he could maintain a blade that is kept at an optimal bevel setting that wont curve when being stropped like say a straight razor..A straight razor will need Honed or refreshed periodically for that reason..;)

To keep the blade flat in the Rolls System they have created Pressure to prevent the blade being rounded off through prolonged stropping..Thats fine & dandy but because the edge is so delicate it doesn't take the keenest of edge..It will offer a good shave & works well but if you Strop the blade outside the Rolls System with One layer of tape it will take a far keener edge and offer the Shave of you're Life..Another issue is that the strokes are far too short..:eek:

I know this because I was stropping an NOS Rolls blade on Leather outside the system for months before I even used the Rolls System & it performs way better because of the lighter touch on a Normal leather strop..I have experimented using both methods and stropping the blade outside the system offers far superior results..A lot of folks either don't know or just cant get their heads around this one..That said there is nothing seriously wrong with the system but if you want an Almighty Result from one of these Wedge Rolls blades then that's something else..:D

Billy
 
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Stropping a Rolls Wedge Hollow Ground outside the System..;)
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When folks are asking me about the system I don't usually mention this because it will just confuse the hell out of them & most folks just want enough Intel to set their systems up that they often struggle with anyway without me being a Smart Arse & Confusing the Matter when they are just learning to use it..:p:D:p

Billy
 
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Stropping a Rolls Wedge Hollow Ground outside the System..;)
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When folks are asking me about the system I don't usually mention this because it will just confuse the hell out of them & most folks just want enough Intel to set their systems up that they often struggle with anyway without me being a Smart Arse & Confusing the Matter when they are just learning to use it..:p:D:p

Billy
What's with the film there Billy? I saw that you had a hone attachment so why not use that when you strop?

Going back to straight razors - and I'm sure the same applies to these blades, final stage honing should be very light pressure - just the weight of the razor is recommended and the same for stropping. So I agree with your conclusion that too much pressure with the Rolls automated stropper will not give the best results.
 
What's with the film there Billy? I saw that you had a hone attachment so why not use that when you strop?

Going back to straight razors - and I'm sure the same applies to these blades, final stage honing should be very light pressure - just the weight of the razor is recommended and the same for stropping. So I agree with your conclusion that too much pressure with the Rolls automated stropper will not give the best results.
Thanks Rob for you're Input..The Rolls Wedge Blade doesn't Fit a Stropping Handle like the Normal Hollow Ground Jobs..Its a very Thick Wedge & the One Layer of Tape = the Bevel Setting within the Rolls System..That's Aluminium Oxide Lapping Film..:p

Billy
 
The Rolls System will Not bring back a Blade that's been neglected or been allowed to loose its edge..It was never designed for that...It was designed this way to offer the average Joe a System where he could maintain a blade that is kept at an optimal bevel setting that wont curve when being stropped like say a straight razor..A straight razor will need Honed or refreshed periodically for that reason.....It will offer a good shave & works well but if you Strop the blade outside the Rolls System.... and offer the Shave of you're Life..Another issue is that the strokes are far too short....I know this because I was stropping an NOS Rolls blade on Leather outside the system for months before I even used the Rolls System & it performs way better because of the lighter touch on a Normal leather strop..... stropping the blade outside the system offers far superior results...
Billy
You put forth a good argument.
If you could improve the system what changes would you make? Me I'd change...
1. pressure level changing system
2. add a set of interchangable finer hones
3. add 7 cm to the length
4. add rubberized grips to the outside case
5. change to a rust poof material
 
Well..Its an Ingenious System as it Is..The pressure cant be changed as it wouldn't work as Intended..There is Nothing Wrong with the System as It will Deliver a Very Good Shave & Maintain a Blade almost Indefinitely..The Rolls was very Popular in the Poorer States of the USA for that Reason & its Robust Design served Folks well after the War Years..o_O

You can get away with using the Rolls System to Maintain the Blade & Finish it of on Leather outside the System to give it a more Keen Edge & also a Smoother Edge..Or you can forget the Rolls System altogether & just Hone & Strop the blade outside the system as you would do with a Straight Razor..Its a Matter of personal Choice..;)

Try it & Feel the Difference..:D

Billy
 
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I'll come out and say I have no idea how you guys go about honing and stropping that blade outside the system.
Grab the blade, tape the spine, lapping paper or a hone, then what? I glide the blade with the fingers back and forth? But then, how to strop?
 
I'll come out and say I have no idea how you guys go about honing and stropping that blade outside the system.
Grab the blade, tape the spine, lapping paper or a hone, then what? I glide the blade with the fingers back and forth? But then, how to strop?
The Real work is Setting the Bevel..That can take some work or not depending on the condition of the blade..That can be done by using small circular motions & or back & forth strokes..You need to follow someone on YouTube that is doing this with straight razors because the principle is the same..Here is a Lynn Abrams Video on Refreshing a blade which is a good way to get a feel for it without Setting a Bevel to get you started..I like this guy because he shows various methods for you to find for yourself...He is very clear and easy to follow..:)

Billy
 
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