No later than August if everything goes well.Will you lot pack it in? I am ages before I get a go.
I am sitting here trying to get an edge on my rolls and even here i keep getting reminded of the bunny.
No later than August if everything goes well.Will you lot pack it in? I am ages before I get a go.
I am sitting here trying to get an edge on my rolls and even here i keep getting reminded of the bunny.
What type of lapping film do you guys use. Diamond or Aluminum oxide? Also suggested micron sizes. This will be for my Rolls and when i get another wedge single.
Thanks in advance.
Tom
I am Learning to use Aluminium Oxide Lapping Film..The Diamond is more popular and easier to get in the USA..Get the stuff that's not (PSA) sticky Backed..I am using 12 Mic for Setting the Bevel but I am going to get some 15 to start with ..So I would suggest..15, 5, 3, 1 & 0.5.....You can Finnish on the 1 for polishing though until you get used to it and go onto leather from there..That's all you need unless you are going for a Restoration or Repair Job in which case you would use something like 30 or maybe even Coarser...
Billy
Aye..And Just to remind you ..One Layer of Tape on a Rolls Blade will Set it to the Correct Bevel Setting for Using Within the Rolls Honing & Stropping System..Thanks. Billy
Will get some oxide in those grits.
The Rolls System will Not bring back a Blade that's been neglected or been allowed to loose its edge..It was never designed for that..The System will make a Blade Shave ready that's already has a Decent Edge..The blade in that condition needs honed outside the system..There is No Bones about That..The rolls can be made shave ready using the built in hone and strop. The most common problem I found is proper force is not being applied to the blade. One can carefully disassemble the friction clip assembly and clean the friction pad and remove all debris and oils. The pad is very delicate and will snap quickly be careful doing this. I experimented and also found the you can score lightly the brass bar length wise with 800 grit sand paper. This will give the pad more grab (friction) if needed.
When honing push or pull quickly but go slow when reversing directions (do not slap the blade on the hone... it will chip / crack the hone) Do 20 to 30 laps. When stropping use a fine strop paste. Try 60 brisk laps. Try a rhythm of saying "lather = one lap" Then test the blade. If need be 30 more strop laps, test and repeat 30 more if needed.
What's with the film there Billy? I saw that you had a hone attachment so why not use that when you strop?Stropping a Rolls Wedge Hollow Ground outside the System..
When folks are asking me about the system I don't usually mention this because it will just confuse the hell out of them & most folks just want enough Intel to set their systems up that they often struggle with anyway without me being a Smart Arse & Confusing the Matter when they are just learning to use it..
Billy
Thanks Rob for you're Input..The Rolls Wedge Blade doesn't Fit a Stropping Handle like the Normal Hollow Ground Jobs..Its a very Thick Wedge & the One Layer of Tape = the Bevel Setting within the Rolls System..That's Aluminium Oxide Lapping Film..What's with the film there Billy? I saw that you had a hone attachment so why not use that when you strop?
Going back to straight razors - and I'm sure the same applies to these blades, final stage honing should be very light pressure - just the weight of the razor is recommended and the same for stropping. So I agree with your conclusion that too much pressure with the Rolls automated stropper will not give the best results.
You put forth a good argument.The Rolls System will Not bring back a Blade that's been neglected or been allowed to loose its edge..It was never designed for that...It was designed this way to offer the average Joe a System where he could maintain a blade that is kept at an optimal bevel setting that wont curve when being stropped like say a straight razor..A straight razor will need Honed or refreshed periodically for that reason.....It will offer a good shave & works well but if you Strop the blade outside the Rolls System.... and offer the Shave of you're Life..Another issue is that the strokes are far too short....I know this because I was stropping an NOS Rolls blade on Leather outside the system for months before I even used the Rolls System & it performs way better because of the lighter touch on a Normal leather strop..... stropping the blade outside the system offers far superior results...
Billy
The Real work is Setting the Bevel..That can take some work or not depending on the condition of the blade..That can be done by using small circular motions & or back & forth strokes..You need to follow someone on YouTube that is doing this with straight razors because the principle is the same..Here is a Lynn Abrams Video on Refreshing a blade which is a good way to get a feel for it without Setting a Bevel to get you started..I like this guy because he shows various methods for you to find for yourself...He is very clear and easy to follow..I'll come out and say I have no idea how you guys go about honing and stropping that blade outside the system.
Grab the blade, tape the spine, lapping paper or a hone, then what? I glide the blade with the fingers back and forth? But then, how to strop?