Horn Scales restoration / Marx & C. "Koh-i-noor"

[angelix]

I started the clean up of a Marx & C. "Koh-i-noor" razor with blonde horn scales and I am having some difficulties.

Basically after taking apart it apart I realized that it had been already repinned in the past (there is trace of a drill bit under the one pin head) there are few crackes here and there (specially one scale around the wedge), they are sligly twisted/ bent and around the pinholes there is some staining.

I cleaned them with soap and tried some clorine and they came up preatty clean, but some of the staining remains, it is like it is embedded in the fibres around the pin holes.

is there a solution for this?

the other issue is regarding the cracks, what would be the best way to "stabilize" them?
as for the bent/twisting, i guess some steam in the right places should fix it, in any case any advice is more than welcome

this is the razor before cleaning

 

[pugh-the-special-one]

RE: Horn Scales restoration

I've always found horn one of the best materials to clean up, but as you say you do have a few problems with that set of scales with cracks twisted and pre-drilled holes showing up under the removed washers, so why don't you make a new set from new horn, it will look exactly the same, here's a link to a seller on ebay which I use for horn blanks, great quality and usually even and flat so you shouldn't have any problem working them here's set I made using the same blanks as I'm showing you. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Light-Horn-Large-Flat-Blank-Plate-160-x-60-x-5-mm-/160554350863?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item2561c8f90f

Jamie

 

[angelix]

RE: Horn Scales restoration

I've always found horn one of the best materials to clean up, but as you say you do have a few problems with that set of scales with cracks twisted and pre-drilled holes showing up under the removed washers, so why don't you make a new set from new horn, it will look exactly the same, here's a link to a seller on ebay which I use for horn blanks, great quality and usually even and flat so you shouldn't have any problem working them here's set I made using the same blanks as I'm showing you. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Light-Horn-Large-Flat-Blank-Plate-160-x-60-x-5-mm-/160554350863?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item2561c8f90f

Jamie

I guess your suggestion would be the best approach, specially since I plan to keep the razor for myself.

MANY THANKS for the link, I did a research (and also purchased) but all I could find was thicker and shorter; It never came to my mind to search for "horn flat plate" so no wonder I did not find this.

I agree on the beauty of the material, I am finishing a set in "smoke black water buffalo" horn (for my Ford & Medley) and I found it easy to work with although in my case I over-complicated the things since the blank I found was 1/2" thick and it took a little bit more work.

 

[UKRob]

RE: Horn Scales restoration

I wouldn't give up on these just yet as they look as though they could still be cleaned up. Here are a few thoughts:

1) The areas around the pin holes - can they be covered with washers? If so you don't need to worry too much about drill marks etc. On the other hand, if the holes are too big you could fill them with some substance that hardens and then re-drill with 1/16".

2) Discolouration can maybe be sanded out with a high grit paper.

3) I wasn't sure what you meant by cracks as there is nothing visible in the photos so are you saying that the horn has started to split into layers? I had something very similar last week but the scales polished up beautifully and I was glad I ignored the splitting - which is minimal anyway. I worked on the principle that it's probably ben going on for years and is unlikely to get very much worse.

4) I can't advise on the best way to straighten them but I know there are articles on Straight Razor Place.

5) Using a progression of wet and dry papers and micro mesh if you have it will bring the scales back to a lovely finish.

Let us know how the restore progresses.

 

[angelix]

RE: Horn Scales restoration

I wouldn't give up on these just yet as they look as though they could still be cleaned up. Here are a few thoughts:

1) The areas around the pin holes - can they be covered with washers? If so you don't need to worry too much about drill marks etc. On the other hand, if the holes are too big you could fill them with some substance that hardens and then re-drill with 1/16".

2) Discolouration can maybe be sanded out with a high grit paper.

3) I wasn't sure what you meant by cracks as there is nothing visible in the photos so are you saying that the horn has started to split into layers? I had something very similar last week but the scales polished up beautifully and I was glad I ignored the splitting - which is minimal anyway. I worked on the principle that it's probably ben going on for years and is unlikely to get very much worse.

4) I can't advise on the best way to straighten them but I know there are articles on Straight Razor Place.

5) Using a progression of wet and dry papers and micro mesh if you have it will bring the scales back to a lovely finish.

Let us know how the restore progresses.

The Scales are "usable", only one has a staining around one of the holes and is "between layers" so it is not coming out with the normal cleaning procedures; I did try using pure bleach and the scales cleaned beautifully, except the stain within the layers which faded jujst a little but still remains.

On inspection after cleaning I can see a crack on one of the scales in the wedge position, but seems superficial and the drilling is under a washer therefore should remain hidden after the pinning is done.

I am of the opinion that unless strictly necessary, the originality should be mantained so I will try to fix them as much as I can so I can hone and try the razor; in the meantime i ordered some new horn material just in case...

 

[angelix]

Voila', refurbished, honed stropped and tested.

sweet, very sweet, it shaves very well and I am quite pleased with the result.

The Razor was taken apart and was lightly polished trying not to remove the etching which is quite deep and resilient, nevertheless in certain points I could see it fading a little if I insisted; all was done by hand.

As for the scales, they were cleaned with dishwasher tablets (does miracles on old dirt), then dipped in bleach to remove all stains and sanded (where the dirt got in between layers) , then "stabilized" using universal CA glue.

The pinning is stable,but not perfect, in fact I had some issues with the domes cracking on the edges .... maybe I cut them too long? Or is it the material? I will be doing more practice with the next restorations, hoping my pinning improves.

here is the final result, please bare in mind that I wanted to do a "conservation" restoration" trying to preserve the originality rather than a full blatsing, mirror polish "hot-rod stile" restoration.

Ah yes, MANY thanks for all the advice which is always VERY welcome (as well as any criticism!!) ... of course I will keep bothering you for the next jobs...

 

[pugh-the-special-one]

Turned out very well indeed, well done. A little tip a little rub over with a bit of Neatsfoot oil wouldn't go amiss, those horn scales must be crying out for a little feed after all those years. I've even seen small hairline splits disappear after several applications, after all horn is only a large nail. This is an old restored Wade & Butcher I restored and the scales looked better after I gave them several applications of neatsfoot oil, those old horn scales really do seem to drink that stuff. I would go as far to say after you have finished restoring the scales drop them into a small shallow pan and cover with neastfoot oil and leave for a few hours.

Jamie

 

[barlines]

A lovely sympathetic restore - you must be pleased with the end result.

 

[angelix]

that W&B is very nice!

As I said I did not want a perfect razor (I would have done noew scales for that) Nevertheless looking at your work i realize that I still have a long way to get there...

I think the next step is to get proper buffing materials for the blades, by hand it takes too long.

Ah thanks for the Neatsfoot oil tip, I have got some online (amazon).

 

[pugh-the-special-one]

that W&B is very nice!

As I said I did not want a perfect razor (I would have done noew scales for that) Nevertheless looking at your work i realize that I still have a long way to get there...

I think the next step is to get proper buffing materials for the blades, by hand it takes too long.

Ah thanks for the Neatsfoot oil tip, I have got some online (amazon).

Well if you need any info and there's anything I can help you with please ask.

Jamie

 

[UKRob]

Who would have thought that was the original scale colour? That's a really pleasing outcome and apart from the scales I'm amazed at what you achieved with the blade considering the original condition.

I know what you mean about hand sanding but beware of going fully automated as it's very easy ro remove all traces of etching with buffing wheels.

Keep posting your work.

Rob

 

[angelix]

Who would have thought that was the original scale colour? That's a really pleasing outcome and apart from the scales I'm amazed at what you achieved with the blade considering the original condition.

I know what you mean about hand sanding but beware of going fully automated as it's very easy ro remove all traces of etching with buffing wheels.

Keep posting your work.

Rob

I was surprised too!! The puicture does not give them justice, they polished very well and are translucent.

I do have a Dremel but I dont like it, I find it gives very little control and when it goes wrong , well... its too late; I am a mechanic fanatic so I am always playing with tools, the dremel is one I use a lot and hate the most.

Anyway it is a learning process and we will how it goes.

 

[UKRob]

One thing I forgot to respond to was the splitting of the pin. This has never happened to me but I assume that there could be a combination of causes. Firstly, you are probably right that you left too much to peen and that in order to tighten the scales sufficiently you have spread the pin beyond the washers. On top of this it could be that your pressure is a bit heavy - the recommended pressure is that you should imagine hitting your thumb - if it is enough to hurt, the pressure is too much!

When cutting the rod I always use the same cutters which are rounded as opposed to flat. By cutting about midway along the curve, I find that there is just the correct length to file down to flat where the cutter has pinched, and then the peen spreads to just before the outer edge of a small washer.

You should try this on some old scales and see just how little is required. Some metals such as copper will spread far more easily and quickly than say nickel silver.