Need specific advice for first blade

M

MorganH

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2
Hey!

I would like to start shaving using a straight blade, as I've grown tired of disposable cartridge razors - the cheap ones are good on longer stubble but fail to provide a smooth shave, whereas the expensive multi-blade ones only perform well on very short stubble, but they're expensive in the long run.

I've never shaved using a straight blade before, so I need your advice. I read up a bit on the subject, but nothing can replace expert advice.

Which specific blade should I go with?
What do I need to buy to get me through 3-6 months of using the blade? I'd rather not invest in unnecessary things that I won't need within these 3-6 months, while I learn the art, and only then get whatever else might be needed once I have a better understanding.

Should I get a stainless steel blade or a carbon blade? I don't want to have to replace this blade with a new one within a few months or a year, and I learn quickly, so I'd rather not get something for beginners and become quickly dissatisfied with it.

What type of hollow grind do I want?

I don't want to buy rubbish, but I also don't want to pay for an expensive handle when a cheaper one will do just as well.

My budget, hmm. Let's just say I don't want to waste money on unneccesary things, such as the handle, or aspects of the blade that are marketed as being better without any scientific proof, but I am happy to pay what's needed for a quality blade.

I will ask these question elsewhere as well, as I don't want to rely on one reply only. The general consensus will lead me in the right direction.

Regards
Morgan
 
Hello Morgan, welcome to the forum.

It's worth your while to search the Straights section for similar threads, here's my very condensed early morning recommendation.

For good quality on a budget go for restored vintage; avoid ebay. Budget for a cheap but serviceable strop, too. Stainless confers no real advantages and incurs a honing premium (unless you do it yourself in which case you'll find out why) so stick to carbon steel. 5/8 - 6/8 is a sensible width range for a first razor, and a round point may be a little safer, not much though. The grind is up to you - I would tentatively suggest a full (but not extra) hollow, others will disagree but I doubt anyone will point you in the direction of a wedge just yet. The man to talk to is Neil Miller, either by personal message here or at The Strop Shop.

Good soap or cream and the ability to make decent lather is a must.

Hope that helps.
 
Have you considered using a double edge (DE) saftey razor?

If the escalating cost of cartridges is the main motivator then I'm sure Andy would agree that its a less initimidated alternative to jumping into straight razor use post cartridge and a basic set up can be had for relative peanuts. Once you've mastered all the elements of wet shaving with a DE the transition to using a straight razor is a hell of a lot easier and should increase your chances of success.
 
Hi Morgan!

Lots of good advice from Arrowhead! ... I would dare to suggest a near wedge though :D, with a natrual smiling edge. Some mean that it's better to go with hollow grinds first and some not, the advantage of the near wedge and smiling blade/edge, I think: it's easier to find right angle (more forgiving), you can trust that the weight'll do the job for you (_no presur is paramont_) and a smiling edge/blade will be easier to move around the face (a very long and straight cutting edge + a pointy point = asking for trouble). Size wise like Andy said, not to narrow (it's actually harder to shave with a narrow blade and if it has a small tang area it can be even more trouble).
 
antdad said:
... I'm sure Andy would agree that its a less initimidated alternative to jumping into straight razor use post cartridge ...
Click to expand...

Indeed I would, and some of the skills are transferable to straight shaving - more than you might think.

Mikael said:
I would dare to suggest a near wedge though :D, with a natural smiling edge.
Click to expand...

Thought you would ;) The bit about the smiling edge is very good advice indeed.
 
Arrowhead said:
Mikael said:
I would dare to suggest a near wedge though :D, with a natural smiling edge.
Click to expand...

Thought you would ;) The bit about the smiling edge is very good advice indeed.
Click to expand...

:angel: :blush: lots of different oppions about this out there.

With a wedge it's also easier not to go wrong with the stropping, in my mind + the edge should last a newbie a little longer... :D
 
More good points from the Man of a Thousand Razors ... It might be just me, but the only razors which have ever skipped on me have been wedgy ones, a trifle disconcerting that. Considering the extra weight, it makes the possibility of taking your chin off a distinct one. Anyway, that was the thinking.
 
Well, there's points with the hollow route also: Some say you get a better technique from the start (it's a harder/tougher route though, I think, but I agree) with a hollow grind. I think it's very personal though, some never could use a wedge and some is the other way around.
 
Thank you everyone for your replies. Four months and I still haven't made up my mind :p
I decided to get a carbon steel 5/8 full hollow.

Antdad I prefer to jump straight to straight, it just feels right in my mind ;]

What brand and where do I get good soap, cream and alum from?

I live in south-west London.

Regards!

ps. restored vintage? Surely 21st century technology has seeped into the straight shaving sector to offer superior quality to vintage products?
 
Hi Morgan,

I can only second Andy's advice to contact Neil at the Strop-Shop. I have just purchased a beginners straight from Neil, who selected a suitable razor for me, given the very basic requirements I had, which basically was I would not use a fortune on an avenue I did not know wuold work out for me. He set me up with this:

IMG_5706.jpg


A vintage Kropp, 5/8" as Andy suggests. The strop is the most basic in Neil's catalouge, but it will do for starters. And the razor is not cosmetically perfect, but that is not a concern for me at this stage. Hope it's OK that I have used your photo Neil?

Neil is a true gentleman to discuss these issues with. Very helpful, and very knowledgeable. And I think you will find that you can't get a shave ready razor and strop cheaper by shopping for a new razor, that is if you stick with very basic requirements for a starter kit.

Regarding technology having made leaps in straight razor production, I think that might be the opposite. The main selling razors these days are cartridge razors, so development into straights will most probably be limited, and possibly only by enthusiasts making custom razors, and these will cost you an arm and a leg. The vintage razors are made in an era, where this type of razor was "normal", and attention to steel quality and manufacturing was probably higher. Plus there are many reports on TSR and other forums stating that some modern straights are not worth getting acquainted with. On www.straightrazorplace.com they have a list of razor brands to avoid at all cost. Even Neil has a statement somewhere on his website to please not send him certain makes for honing, as these are often very problematic, due to manufacturing defects.

Having said all of the above, I have never held a straight to my face, so take my input as that of a guy who have just had the same considerations as yourself, and when it comes to actually shaving, and the properties of different grinds etc, consult the more experienced gentlemen of this thread. And Neil of course. Regardless what you end up choosing, talking to Neil will be time well spent!

/Max
 
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