What gives the best result? An Agressive Razor...

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166
...with a mild blade, or a mild razor with an aggresive blade?

When using the terms 'agressive' and 'mild' I am exaggerating for emphasis, but you get the idea - Gillette superspeed with a Feather, or Open Comb with a Derby?

I can see pros and con's for both arguement, but has anyone tested this? If so what was the outcome?

Jules
 
For me, it really does depend a lot on the razor - more so than the blade.

Most of the open combs I've tried are no more aggressive than their equivalents with a solid guard bar - some are actually less aggressive for me.

For example, I have a Merkur 11G which as far as I can tell is an open comb version of the 34HD - personally, I find the 34 more aggressive than the 11. Likewise, my Merkur 1904 is a pussy cat compared to most other razors.

Then you get to the likes of the Muhle R41 - now that *is* an aggressive beast, but I would also consider my Merkur Futur to be equally as agressive. In these cases, I don't think the blade used would have a huge impact.

Of course, these are just my own findings and your mileage may vary!
 
Interesting question this. For me there is no rule as such. It depends on the razor and blade and how they work together.

One strange razor for me is a Futur. No matter what blade is in this razor, I get a great shave.
 
opinions matter....ihave had a lovely shave today with my ej chatsworth and a feather..easy and very very snooth
 
I have to agree with you about the Futur. I find it an excellent razor. I've left it set at 2 and all blades work well.
Other razors. I'm not sure that I can use the term aggressive. Mild yes, this morning for kicks I tried a 'black ended Gillette Superspeed ' used s green Gillette 7 o'clock blade. Half a bowl of lather latter there were still whiskers. Switched the blade over to a Merkur 39C and finished with no problems. Aside from the 'red tip Superspeed I find all superspeeds to be like this. Call them mild?? No; they just don't work that well with my technique. A razor either shaves or it doesn't; it's the Face not the Tool.
 
Some like aggression on the first pass then milder on the second. I tend to use all the sharper blades these days and am currently using my adjustable razors with a setting around 7 or 6 on the first pass, then 5 or 4 for the second, then stick to 3 for touching up/missed bits.
If you have or get an adjustable try this.
 
A very good question...as has been said, the Muhle 41r is, to my mind at least a very aggressive razor,I use only Astra Sp's in it,and find if I get the angle wrong it is very harsh on the skin......get the angle right,and it is silky smooth and super close..

To answer your question,If you can get the shave angle right...and to me there is very little margin for error..the 41r will give a smoother closer shave than almost any other razor that I have tried....

The mildest razor in my collection has to be the Aluminium Tech...which even with a new Feather blade needs the full three WTG...XTG...and AGT plus quite a lot of tidying up passes to achieve BBS.

I'm not a fan of aggressive razors for the sake of being aggressive...a nice compromise for me is the Merkur 33c with a Feather...Milder than the other merkurs...(Yes even though they share the same head)...But with just a nice amount of "edge" to the shave without taking your face off.....but still giving a BBS finish.
 
Johnus said:
Call them mild?? No; they just don't work that well with my technique. A razor either shaves or it doesn't; it's the Face not the Tool.

Now there's an interesting 'slant' (please forgive the pun!) to the arguement. Razors are not 'mild or agressive' in themselves, they become 'mild or agressive' dependant on how they are used and the situation in which they are used, which means it all comes back to technique.

Very, very interesting..........
 
There aren't really any comprehensive ratings of razor "aggression" or blade rankings so it's a simplistic method of filtering the extreme combinations that can arise when you are trying to find an effective pairing (particularly for beginners) for you.
 
Blades can never be considered "aggressive" or otherwise, they can only be sharp, or blunt, or rough or smooth, and everything in between, but never aggressive.

Aggressive is a term that some use to describe how much bite a razor has. That's the gap between blade edge and the guard bar or comb.

There has in fact been a table published on blade gap, but I don't believe in it.

So what does the closest shave? Dunno, but for fun, let's take my favourite aggresive razor the Merkur 37C with a crap blade like a Merkur original, versus a mild razor such as an Edwin Jagger 87 with a great blade like a 7 o'clock yellow.
I think both razors would get you the same result. They may feel different, the 37 will get started much quicker and might even do it in 2 passes, but both will get you there in the end and the Jagger might leave you feeling less raped.

Slightly odd question though, like saying what's quicker, a Ford Focus with a Ferrari engine, or a Ferrari 355 with a Ford engine. Kind of pointless doing either... go with a good razor with a good blade in the first place.
 
Actually there is an excellent article on aggressiveness : hopeful the web references will transpose here....

Contents
1What is aggressiveness?
2What causes aggressiveness?
3Aggression
3.1Aggressiveness and Exposure
4See Also

[hide] - [top] - [edit]What is aggressiveness?
The aggressiveness of a razor largely relies on 5 different factors.
Blade gap
Blade angle in the razor
Razor weight
Distribution of the weight. (Heavy head/light handle vs. all heavy.)
Blade angle applied by the user
The last point can influence the shave drastically if not done properly. A user shouldn't follow a quest to find the mildest or most aggressive razor. What a user should do is find the right level of aggressiveness for themselves.

Ok the web site reference didn't copy. Let's try it this way:


article
discussion (1)
edit
history
Double-Edged Safety Razors Ranked by Aggressiveness

Contents
1What is aggressiveness?
2What causes aggressiveness?
3Aggression
3.1Aggressiveness and Exposure
4See Also


[hide] - [top] - [edit]What is aggressiveness?
The aggressiveness of a razor largely relies on 5 different factors.
Blade gap
Blade angle in the razor
Razor weight
Distribution of the weight. (Heavy head/light handle vs. all heavy.)
Blade angle applied by the user


The last point can influence the shave drastically if not done properly. A user shouldn't follow a quest to find the mildest or most aggressive razor. What a user should do is find the right level of aggressiveness for themselves.


[hide] - [top] - [edit]What causes aggressiveness?
Razor aggressiveness depends on a variety of factors, the two most important of which are blade gap and weight. The larger the blade gap, the more of the blade is exposed to the skin, hence the greater risk of nicks and cuts for an inexperienced user. However, experienced shavers often prefer a larger blade exposure for the greater control it affords over the angle of the blade as it meets the skin.

As far as weight is concerned, the heavier the razor, the more aggressive it is generally perceived to be. Weight balance (such as whether a razor is more head-heavy or handle-heavy) also plays a role, with razors balanced more toward the head often considered milder shavers than their handle-heavy brethren.

A simple way to estimate the aggressiveness of two fixed-head (non-adjustable) razors is to compare their respective blade gap and weight.


[hide] - [top] - [edit]Aggression


Graphic of Terms|A graphic with description of some terms that will be useful for the description of "aggressiveness".
Aggressiveness is not dependent upon a single dimension or measure of a razor. It depends upon blade geometry/angle, exposure, span, gap, weight, and most of all, the user.

Again: there are factors other than the blade gap size that might make a razor seem more or less aggressive. Most notable is "blade exposure", or, the protrusion of the blade above a line tangent to the razor head and blade guard as they touch the face (see picture for more information and terminology).
[hide] - [top] - [edit]Aggressiveness and Exposure

Aggressiveness of a safety razor can be thought of as the degree to which a blade is exposed to the face and beard, or conversely the degree to which the face and beard are not protected from the blade by the razor's safety features.

The two things that protect your face and beard from the blade are the razor's cap and the razor's guard. The cap and guard touch the skin while shaving and the blade is exposed to the skin between the two. Thus, the blade exposure can be described as the distance the blade protrudes past an imaginary tangent between cap and guard. The "gap" discussed above is not the same as the exposure as defined here, but larger gaps will tend to create larger exposures (and make it more possible for the skin to be caught inside the gap), given that the rest of the geometry stays about the same. So, the above measurements give an approximate ranking.

Another factor in aggressiveness might be the angle that the blade makes with that imaginary line. There is probably an ideal angle, usually stated as around 30 degrees from the face, but that might be different for different beards and maybe even different for different areas of the same beard.

One advantage of an aggressive razor may be that the user has more control over the angle at which the blade touches the skin.
 
Hmm,

I can get the same results from a Merkur 37c and a Feather Stainless with the same blade. The difference is two or three passes....

And if I try this, I would personally fell more raped by the Feather (I have tried...)

I would say find out what blade your razors like, and stick to that. It might be a different blade for each razor.

Then find out what kind of shave you like. Then adapt the number of passes to that, depending on your razors.

You might just find that you really just love to shave with one razor, and the others you keep because they are beautiful...

Having said that, if you change your soap/cream/brush every day, your shaves are probably going to be different due to slight variations in the lather.

It is a little difficult questing for the 'best result'.

/Max
 
Interesting stuff.
My own experience is a the blade is either good or not really.
I use a yellow and it works in everything.
For me the extent to its success is in the razor.
A tech and I need to shave for ever.
A progress and I can shave close as.
An old type. No chance.
I prefer a sharp blade no matter what kit.
I tried a shark in an aggressive razor to calm things down and the problem gets worse.
At least with a sharp blade I have a default setting. I know what it feels like and the performance I can expect.
Nice things.
Cheers
Slimbo
 
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