Cheap Shavette using Feather Blade vs Feather Artist SS - Is there a difference?

Messages
13
I have tried 2 shaves now with my £10 shavette using Wilkinson, Derby and Astra Platinum blades and they have trouble going through my beard. They pull on the hair rather than slicing though and sometimes the hair actually stops the blade. I do have a very tough beard (and sensitive skin unfortunately) which is why I wanted to try a straight razor style. I now have a pack of feather blades on order.

Also I have my Christmas present to choose and I keep reading good things about the Feather Artist Club Razors and am considering getting a Feather Artist Club SS and some Professional and Professional Super Blades. I have seen videos of people shaving with straight razors and Feather Artist club SS gliding through the beard in single passes which seems like magic compared to what I experienced. I hope they can do that on my wire beard.

However, I keep thinking ; if the Razor is just a holder for the blade is there really a difference between a £10 shavette using feather blades and a £100-£150 Feather Artist SS holder using a feather pro blade? Does the longer blade length and holder style really make a difference and are the Feather Artist Blades like the Pro and Pro super better than the feather blades you buy to use in a normal shavette?

I'd very much appreciate some advice.

Many thanks

ps

I also learned today to wait to become more proficient to do the chin and under the nose bit. Especially under the nose. I will not forget as I have a lovely cut there to remind me. I think you need a removable nose to get the angle ;)
 
The Geometry of the SS is slightly different. There is a small lip which makes the experience more forgiving. Personally I would start with the SS and when happy buy a DX if you so desire. Using a Feather does take a bit of practise and if you start with a DX you may be a little discouraged and find yourself adopting a negative attitude towards Feather AC razors in general. I have a number of SS razors....both Traditional and Japanese styles. I also have the (now discontinued) RG which has the same profile as the DX. My experience of shaving with both would not cause me to rush out and spend the considerable sum required to upgrade to a DX.

In answer to your question about blades....for me Feather DE blades are sharp....but dull after 2 or 3 shaves. With a SuperPro I usually get around 12!
 
I have recently purchase an artist club SS and it has quickly become my daily razor. Feather blades are top notch but the razor paired with schick proline blades are a smoother experience. As always YMMV but I would definitely recommend an artist club razor like yourself I have tough stubble and sensitive skin and this tool does the trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bin the DE shavette, they are rubbish.



The Artist Club SS is slightly milder than the DX due to the head geometry.

But, the DX is more 'adjustable'.

There are 4 types of Feather AC blades.

Lights, Proguards, Professional and Super.

The cutting edge in a Light blade is shorter than the rest. In the SS it is practically useless and there is not enough blade exposure to get a shave, but in the DX it becomes a great beginners razor.

The Proguard and Professional have the same blade exposure but the Proguards have a 'guard' to make them slightly less aggressive than the Professionals.

The Super is the widest blade and has the most blade exposure.

My advice would be to get the DX, start with the lights and work your way up.


Also, Kai and Schick make the same type of razor and the Schick Prolines are reportedly better than the Pro's but I have not tried them yet.

Having tried all the different types (except the Schick), I have settled on a folding Kai Captain ( fits somewhere between a SS and a DX) and a non folding Kai Excelia.

9fd6679fb287d478e270355ddf207aaa.jpg
 
Can you get good shaves with DE blades in a regular DE razor? If you can then there's no reason why you can't learn to shave with those razors. Plenty of men around the world use them to shave themselves or to get shaves from their barber. They do need a REALLY light touch, though. After some practise I was able to get great shaves from several Parker and various other models. Keep the blade close to your face, keep the lather nice and wet, stretch your skin and use a light touch. You'll get there.

Sent from my XT1685 using Tapatalk
 
Those DE Shavettes are Crud..Cheaper than the Price of a Feather Artist & Blades You will Get a Shave Ready Traditional Straight Razor & Strop..A Traditional SR is Very Easy to Maintain & is Far More Comfortable than a Shavette..Before Anyone Says Shavettes are Sharper I Can Hone an SR Just as Sharp..Although I Wouldn't Want to..;)

The Learning Curve to Shave with a Traditional SR is Longer than a Shavette..But..The Stropping & Maintenance with Say Pastes is Easy Peasy..Its Not a Hassle or a Fuss as Some Claim..A Lot of the Guys Getting Hassle with SRs is Simply Due to the Fact that they were Never Proper Shave Ready in the 1st Place..As Long as You Get a Proper Shave Ready SR in the 1st Place You are Cooking with Gas & Cheaper in the Short & Long Run.:D

Billy
 
Those DE Shavettes are Crud..Cheaper than the Price of a Feather Artist & Blades You will Get a Shave Ready Traditional Straight Razor & Strop..A Traditional SR is Very Easy to Maintain & is Far More Comfortable than a Shavette..Before Anyone Says Shavettes are Sharper I Can Hone an SR Just as Sharp..Although I Wouldn't Want to..;)

The Learning Curve to Shave with a Traditional SR is Longer than a Shavette..But..The Stropping & Maintenance with Say Pastes is Easy Peasy..Its Not a Hassle or a Fuss as Some Claim..A Lot of the Guys Getting Hassle with SRs is Simply Due to the Fact that they were Never Proper Shave Ready in the 1st Place..As Long as You Get a Proper Shave Ready SR in the 1st Place You are Cooking with Gas & Cheaper in the Short & Long Run.:D

Billy

Thanks :)

I have a Feather AC on the way from Japan to start with but if it all goes well I may get a real straight in the future. I avoided it at first because you need 60 passes on the strop before every shave and apparently honing on a stone is a real art. I wouldn't know if I had messed up the razor or had bad technique while learning.

Do you think you can get away with buying just 1 stone and 1 stop? I see people buying multiple stones which looks expensive. If it is possible with only one stone what grade should it be?

How often do you find you have to hone your razor? I was thinking that when you buy razors in packs a few degrees in the angle might make a big difference between aggressive and smooth. I wouldn't know if I was putting the “wrong” kind of edge on it.

which would your recommend if I go for one in the future?
 
Once You have a Proper Shave Ready SR & Strop..All You Need to Maintain it Almost Forever is 0.5 Chro/Ox Paste & ONE Finishing Stone..A 12 K Naniwa Super Stone is an Excellent Finishing Stone & Refreshing Razors..Or..Even Cheaper is 3 Micron Lapping Film = 12 K or 1 Micron Lapping Film = 16 K..:)

I Can Maintain an SR in a Rotation for 18 Months or 2 Years or More Just with Paste..8/10 Sets on Paste Every 4 Shaves or So will Maintain them Sharp for a Very Long Time..Some Folks Do 2 or 3 Sets Every Shave..That Keeps them Sharp..My Motto is Keep Em Sharp..Easy Peasy..o_O

So..Its Very Rare that I Need to Take Any of My Razors Back to a Stone for a Refresh..As Far as the Correct Angle Goes..The Angle is Set from the Factory from the Spine to the Edge with the Blade Flat on the Hone..:D

Billy
 
Last edited:
I have tried 2 shaves now with my £10 shavette using Wilkinson, Derby and Astra Platinum blades and they have trouble going through my beard. They pull on the hair rather than slicing though and sometimes the hair actually stops the blade. I do have a very tough beard (and sensitive skin unfortunately) which is why I wanted to try a straight razor style. I now have a pack of feather blades on order.

Also I have my Christmas present to choose and I keep reading good things about the Feather Artist Club Razors and am considering getting a Feather Artist Club SS and some Professional and Professional Super Blades. I have seen videos of people shaving with straight razors and Feather Artist club SS gliding through the beard in single passes which seems like magic compared to what I experienced. I hope they can do that on my wire beard.

However, I keep thinking ; if the Razor is just a holder for the blade is there really a difference between a £10 shavette using feather blades and a £100-£150 Feather Artist SS holder using a feather pro blade? Does the longer blade length and holder style really make a difference and are the Feather Artist Blades like the Pro and Pro super better than the feather blades you buy to use in a normal shavette?

I'd very much appreciate some advice.

Many thanks

ps

I also learned today to wait to become more proficient to do the chin and under the nose bit. Especially under the nose. I will not forget as I have a lovely cut there to remind me. I think you need a removable nose to get the angle ;)

I use a Feather DX in the shop every day with Feather Pro's though when I run out of the Pro's I'm going to buy 300 of the Schick Prolines as they are smoother.

Feather DX and SS are designed for simplicity, you can't go wrong. The weight of the Feather razor is it's selling point in my opinion. No pressure is needed.
 
I use a Feather DX in the shop every day with Feather Pro's though when I run out of the Pro's I'm going to buy 300 of the Schick Prolines as they are smoother.

Feather DX and SS are designed for simplicity, you can't go wrong. The weight of the Feather razor is it's selling point in my opinion. No pressure is needed.

Thanks :) good tip on the Schick blades.

Great to get an answer from a Pro :)

What part of Ireland are you from?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top Bottom