Thoughts on Aggressiveness

Yet another quest for the mythical BBS is what fells many a neophyte. Many come back to the forum hat in hand bemoaning irritation and ingrown hairs. It's been said a million times: shaving is beard reduction and not elimination.
 
I have gone back and forth between "mild" and "aggressive" razors. Part of it was a lot of growth with my technique, and regularly shaving with either can get you there.

For me, trying new razors has been fun, while also being informative. At the end of the day, everyone will have different preferences.

But I think if most shavers were being honest, they'd like to have the closest possible shave that remains comfortable. Not that anyone really talks about comfort. As a guy with sensitive skin and a susceptibility to ingrown hairs, I found fewer passes increased my comfort.

After improving my technique, I have enjoyed more "aggressive" razors because the shave lasts longer, and it doesn't hurt that the wife and daughter like that too.

For me, the Gillette Old Type, 2013 R41, Ikon Deluxe, GC 84 base plate, and ATT Windsor H provide near optimal comfort, while still being very efficient.

Some others, like the PAA BOCS, German 37, and Dart were less comfortable and left me with mystery nicks I didn't know about until after the pass.

And, while I've been evaluating which razors have a future on a BST, I still plan on keeping some "milder" razors like the Baby Smooth and Merkur 45.

RAD is funny because you never know which razors you'll really enjoy until you shave with it. But if you can avoid it, especially having found a razor you love early on, your wallet will thank you.

Happy shaves!
 
I have gone back and forth between "mild" and "aggressive" razors. Part of it was a lot of growth with my technique, and regularly shaving with either can get you there.

For me, trying new razors has been fun, while also being informative. At the end of the day, everyone will have different preferences.

But I think if most shavers were being honest, they'd like to have the closest possible shave that remains comfortable. Not that anyone really talks about comfort. As a guy with sensitive skin and a susceptibility to ingrown hairs, I found fewer passes increased my comfort.

After improving my technique, I have enjoyed more "aggressive" razors because the shave lasts longer, and it doesn't hurt that the wife and daughter like that too.

For me, the Gillette Old Type, 2013 R41, Ikon Deluxe, GC 84 base plate, and ATT Windsor H provide near optimal comfort, while still being very efficient.

Some others, like the PAA BOCS, German 37, and Dart were less comfortable and left me with mystery nicks I didn't know about until after the pass.

And, while I've been evaluating which razors have a future on a BST, I still plan on keeping some "milder" razors like the Baby Smooth and Merkur 45.

RAD is funny because you never know which razors you'll really enjoy until you shave with it. But if you can avoid it, especially having found a razor you love early on, your wallet will thank you.

Happy shaves!
The first two paragraphs here make a lot of sense. Growth of technique makes the difference, and yes, it is worth trying different razors to discover your preferences. I have about 10 and 3 straights atm.

Then it descends into the same phrases we hear all the time...

"The shave from an aggressive razor lasts longer" (Untrue - how is this possible?)

Some aren't comfortable because they cause nicks" (How would they do that? Unless you're using them badly)

"I'll keep some milder razors for a change (but they don't shave as well)"

This is all wrong. This is all about technique. Notice that the Dart (said to be pretty aggressive) gives mystery nicks - in other words my technique with it is poor and it punishes me for it. Raise the handle, keep the blade flat, and it should shave well. If you can do it with no guard with a straight you can do it with a blade in a handle.

And then in the last paragraph it's back to mentioning enjoyment. Now, that really does change razor to razor
 
It seems to me:
1. Blade gap does matter. That's the whole point of an adjustable razor - it adjusts the blade gap. However, as said, there are plenty of other factors at play here as well.
2. The idea that everything is technique may be theoretically true but it may not help in practise. Shavers just don't have perfect techniques. And even shavers with good techniques make mistakes, because skin isn't flat and it has various blemishes depending on the person and the day. There was a reason for the introduction of the "safety" razor - to keep people safe.

I really don't think shaving is a process that responds to absolutes. There are a large number of variables and you juggle them to get the best result you can. And even then, as said, you make mistakes.
 
It doesn't matter. I understand your point that other factors are in play but I don't care about them. They still won't make any difference to the shave.

If you have the blade lightly against the skin, so as not to cause irritation, it makes no difference what razor you use. Some may feel better to you than others, but won't change how closely they shave. A blade on the skin is a blade on the skin.

Honestly, at that point maybe even the type of blade might make more difference. And we all know my feelings on "bad" blades.

Fair point, if your technique is good enough you should be able to get a good shave with anything, and you could probably just use a straight and have done.

There is an optimum angle and level of pressure, less blade exposure means that you're more likely to either get it right and it'll shave well or get it wrong and it won't do much. With increased blade exposure comes increased opportunity to use a sub-optimal angle resulting in a less-comfortable shave and / or irritation and more potential for injury if you use too much pressure.

I completely agree with your assertion that a blade on the skin will remove all stubble to skin level, so am similarly at a loss when someone claims that an R41 shaves closer than a Tech.
 
Fair point, if your technique is good enough you should be able to get a good shave with anything, and you could probably just use a straight and have done.

There is an optimum angle and level of pressure, less blade exposure means that you're more likely to either get it right and it'll shave well or get it wrong and it won't do much. With increased blade exposure comes increased opportunity to use a sub-optimal angle resulting in a less-comfortable shave and / or irritation and more potential for injury if you use too much pressure.

I completely agree with your assertion that a blade on the skin will remove all stubble to skin level, so am similarly at a loss when someone claims that an R41 shaves closer than a Tech.
And lasts for longer?!?! :eek:

You're right - madness haha
 
It seems to me:
1. Blade gap does matter. That's the whole point of an adjustable razor - it adjusts the blade gap. However, as said, there are plenty of other factors at play here as well.
2. The idea that everything is technique may be theoretically true but it may not help in practise. Shavers just don't have perfect techniques. And even shavers with good techniques make mistakes, because skin isn't flat and it has various blemishes depending on the person and the day. There was a reason for the introduction of the "safety" razor - to keep people safe.

I really don't think shaving is a process that responds to absolutes. There are a large number of variables and you juggle them to get the best result you can. And even then, as said, you make mistakes.

The adjustable razors adjust the gap so that this one razor can meet every shaver's preferences.

If you like your razor mild (read sometimes won't shave because my technique is poor, but rarely punishes me for it), you turn it down.

If you want aggressive (read the blade to be well exposed so it stays in contact with skin, the trade off being easier to irritate/nick), turn it up.

But not everyone using it on 7 or 9 gets a horribly irritating shave with frequent bloodshed, and not everyone using it on 3 will be unable to achieve BBS. Why? Technique. All the settings work and if the blade is sharp are capable of BBS. It's down to you, and whether you're capable.

I'm not saying some aren't more enjoyable than others. I like my New Improved better than my Aluminium Tech. But they can both give me a BBS shave. I just think the New is cooler.

If you're a shaver (or as you said, most people) who does make mistakes, if your technique is good you'd be best off with a mild razor. BBS with less chance of damage. Some people know they're unlikely to nick using a more aggressive one, and have to focus less on angle used, meaning the shave feels effortless.

In summary, you do you. Just don't buy a new razor because it'll shave better/with less passes. It won't. Buy a new razor because they're cool and you like them
 
1. Blade gap does matter. That's the whole point of an adjustable razor - it adjusts the blade gap. However, as said, there are plenty of other factors at play here as well.

Blade gap matters when all other aspects of the head's geometry remain the same. This is why it matters with an adjustable, however with two different razors you may as well compare handle length for all the meaning you'll get. The Fatip OC has a smaller blade gap than a Tech.
 
And my three words would be nonadjustable nonadjustable nonadjustable

I don't get the adjustable thing at all. A good razor will amply cover all sins. And most hairs while at it.

Prep and technique are bigger than any blade gap

For me an adjustable only makes sense in that you're more likely to be able to buy blind and find a setting that you like. I have a major preference for three-piece razors though, I love the simplicity.
 
Blade gap matters when all other aspects of the head's geometry remain the same. This is why it matters with an adjustable, however with two different razors you may as well compare handle length for all the meaning you'll get. The Fatip OC has a smaller blade gap than a Tech.

Blade exposure beyond the edge of the cap matters more than air space under the blade edge, the Fatip and the OLD type have pretty close to zero gap.
 
Blade gap matters when all other aspects of the head's geometry remain the same. This is why it matters with an adjustable, however with two different razors you may as well compare handle length for all the meaning you'll get. The Fatip OC has a smaller blade gap than a Tech.

Absolutely - that's what I meant. I'm still liking Dansco's "Buy a new razor because they're cool and you like them..."

Except that this is the perfect excuse for RAD.....

I too prefer a 3 piece when, and only when, the efficiency and smoothness is right, and I have a few Frankenrazors on the bench. But I must confess that my Progress is a damn fine razor - very smooth. Great design. Other days I love my Tech....
 
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