Bunch of new names and good tips here, good Sirs. Thanks! Still a novice in the olfactory world, but trying to pick up.
I'll misread a little and respond in terms of a single scent note: Vetiver. Anything vetiver usually does it for me, as long as it's not too soapy (one example of which is Rituals' no 17 Vetiver & Bergamot). Wearing Annick Goutal's vetiver today for the first time -- absolutely fabulous. Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire starts out medicinal and powdery but dries down nicely if a bit floral. (Would also highly recommend the heavier, woodsy, almost Christmas tree like French Lover from FM.) Guerlain Vetiver is a classic. L'Occitane Vetyver is great. Adolfo Dominguez is a good budget version, if a bit soapy for the first 15 mins. Carven's current Vetiver version is nice, a bit drier and soapier than Guerlain. Of the 'kinder' versions to try for those who don't like the pure and dry vetiver, are Tom Ford Grey Vetiver and Lalique Encre Noire -- although quite different (the former plenty of citrus in the mix, the latter has a profile more in the direction of matches and flint stone).
That's a few. Still lots to try. Roja Dove and Creed are high on my to sample-list.
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