DE Shaving - Where am I going wrong?

L

Lucido

Guest
Hi Everyone.

So after a few months break from the wet-shaving world I've decided to give the DE another go. In the meantime I've been using Gillette twin blade carts (Contour and Sensor Excel) with brush and soap and getting a great shave every time. What puts me off using the carts is the fact that I can only shave with them every other day - shaving again after 24hrs always results in a rough, irritating shave and doesn't get very close at all. The carts also tend to cause red bumps on the neck if I do anything other than WTG passes.

The issue I have with the DE is not nicks/cuts but I tend to get very noticeable red rashes high up on my cheeks and chin area. These areas were disaster zones with an EJ DE89 but even with an ultra mild Wilkinson Sword Classic I still have the redness and irritation. Strangely enough, my neck is clean as a whistle with no irritation at all. I'm using a very soft Plisson synthetic so it's not brush burn and I'm using the same soaps/creams that I've used without any issues for cartridge shaves so I don't think it's a lather issue or a reaction.

Right now my shave routine is

- Warm shower and giving the whiskers a quick wash with glycerine soap
- Proraso white pre-shave
- Bowl lather with MWF/Palmolive cream/TOBs
- Two WTG passes with the Wilkinson Sword Classic and WS blades. Trying to apply no pressure at all and keeping the angle shallow with the handle out as far from my face as possible while still cutting.
- Warm water rinse followed by cold water rinse
- Bulldog Sensitive Moisturiser

Can anyone help? Why am I getting a nearly perfect shave on the neck and yet butchering my face?

Thank you.
Lucido.
 
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Thanks @PickledNorthern

I was going in much too steep on the chin area previously (it was red raw before, now it's just 'mildly burned') but I've corrected that for the last few weeks. I had thought that the Wilkinson, being extremely mild would just refuse to cut at steep angles but it's still doing a real number on my face. Very disheartening to go into work with a red face everyday.
 
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The cutting angle of razor varies from one to another. I don't know which is the best angle for the EJ DE89. On my Muhle R41 which is an agressive razor I keep the handle pointing towards the floor, perhaps you could try that very gently and see how you get on.
I don't know the Wilkinson Sword blades either but in my experience I found for best results is to find the best razor / blade combination for my skin. For example, the first time I used the R41, being sunch an agressive razor, the advise was to use a Derby blade ( a less sharp blade) I had to stop mid-shave and swap the blade for one that is very sharp. That blade, Perma Sharp, works well with that Razor.
It does take some time for some people to adjust their skin to DE shaving, I used to get plenty of irritation with a mild razor to begin with but not anymore, even with an agressive razor. I used to think that I was shaving with no pressure but I was..... practice, practice and trying new things. Try other blades.... voskhod blades are very smooth blade with several of my razors, Derby blades work well with my 34c for me. The important thing is that you have a good razor there.

Good luck.
 
Thanks @phil-b

The irritation at the corners of the mouth is not shaving related for me. I actually get it a lot in the winter and when I forget about using balm. I have witch hazel though and I will give it a go and see if it helps.
 
Lucido said:
Thanks @phil-b

The irritation at the corners of the mouth is not shaving related for me. I actually get it a lot in the winter and when I forget about using balm. I have witch hazel though and I will give it a go and see if it helps.
Click to expand...

It was not shaving related for me either but I did find witch hazel just to be good for your akin in gwneral
 
Diggy87 said:
Have you tried a different blade? A sharper blade maybe better, I've found Astra SP to be the best for me up to now. I'm also pretty new to DE shaving
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I've tried a Bic (terrible, tuggy and weepers along the jawline), Personna Platinum Chromes and Wilkinson Swords. I found the Wilkinsons felt a little smoother on the face than the Personnas.

@Merkurologist I'm actually using the Wilkinson Sword Classic DE at the moment. I decided to give DE shaving another shot after reading about how mild a shaver it is and the fact that I could pick one up at boots for just a few euro. I also had, (and very foolishly sold) a Feather AS-D2. I can't remember if it caused the same rashes or not but it was definitely better than the DE89.
 
Because they have only one cutting side carts can have their handles and head set at a much more intuitive angle than conventional DEs ; so, since they function better for you I'd suggest that angle is a contributing factor. Pressure is also something we can get away with when using carts whereas a DE is more unforgiving. However I doubt that pressure is the culprit since your neck is fine.
My own rather ' precious ' skin favours Feathers as a blade, so it may be worth giving a sharper blade a go with your usual ' no pressure ' practise. Maybe give the pre shave a miss and see how that goes, if you haven't already. And try if you can get away with just the one pass on the irritated areas meantime.
Best of luck Luci.

JohnnyO. o/
 
I'd highly recommend getting yourself a sample pack as mentioned above. Ensure you get some Astra SP, polsilver and a few others. I was also recommended Sputnik and voskhod, both of which I got it my sample pack but ok yet to try as I've had great success with Astra's so I'll try those in a couple of weeks when my Astra's are gone
 
I have to concur with @Steve Bowles, @JohnnyO and @chris.hale in that blades appear to be the root cause of the problem. What you have tried to date appears to be a mix of what are generally acknowledged to be either just plain poor and / or very mild. Mild blades can easily lead to overcompensating with pressure. Pressure with a DE equates to problems.

I would look at blades which are sharper and proven performers such as:
  • Astra SP
  • Sputnik
  • Polsilver SI
  • Rapira Swedes
  • Voskhod (slightly milder than the rest listed)

I've purposely omitted the ultra sharp Feather and Kai as they are a totally different proposition

Good Luck
 
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