Adjustable? No thanks.

[ischiapp]

A doubt pervades me every time I see recommending the Merkur Progress a neophyte.
Even worse with less balanced adjustable razor.

This doubt derives from my experience.
I had them, appreciated and sold them.
All, except the Merkur Futur that I don't use for its aggressiveness ... but I admire it as a design object.

At the beginning they are comfortable and bewitching.
You still don't know your preferences, maybe the technique is still unripe, the idea of having so many options, the undoubted charm of some vintage models (for me in descending order ... Gibbs Reglable # 17, Gillette Toggle, Fatboy , Black Beauty Super-109, Slim).

But over time, you understand that performance is related to geometry.
As the gap increases the arch should increase, and since it is impossible for now what increases is the exposure ... then the positive asset, that is the sensation (feedback) of the blade on the skin.

Not to mention the rigidity of the blade, produced only with fixed mechanisms (not movable) that support it strongly on both sides.
All at the expense of comfort.

The refinement of one's perceptions and preferences also plays an important role.
Today I know my ideal razor.
I'm not looking for alternatives that are too far away.

So personally I don't recommend an adjustable.
But above all I do not recommend it to a person with little experience.
I find it much more useful to concentrate one's efforts on a single razor, possibly balanced, for the time necessary (a few dozen shaves, better every day) to refine the technique and consistently achieve a good result.
Only then can you choose an alternative, in a more conscious way.


What is your experience about?
Here a poll to see how average of us use adjustable razor.
https://forms.gle/34cKfMM2kvw3TQFA7

Enjoy.

 

[ischiapp]

At the moment, on 103 votes more than 50% do NOT use adjustment.

 

[NotTheStig]

I voted: fixed adjustment.

I use a fixed adjustment throughout the shave (usually) unless I have gone a long time without shaving.
I generally shave every day but if I have left it a few days or more I use a higher setting at the start and work my way down with each pass.
Don't know if this is "wrong" but it's what I do.

 

[Drew71]

Never understood the point of decreasing the number on an adjustable razor. I start on say a 3 and adjust upward. Surely adjusting down is counterintuitive?

 

[exists]

Although still much a beginner... the thing that's important for me is good blade clamping. The closer to the blade edge the better. This seems to be easier to achieve on CNC machined razors than on others, the exception being Rockwell 6S which is also excellent.

On adjustables constructed like Merkur Progress, clamping essentially depends only on a spring... so if going for an adjustable I would at least go for one where the blade is clamped as on a 3-piece - the ones where the mechanism comes from the Gibbs.

Anyway, probably the most important thing is really the technique, and I think that's much easier to learn with a fixed razor - it certainly was for me. An "adjustable" like 6S or 6C or Karve CB is useful to find the exposure that works best: I can now stick to fixed razors that have the right exposure for me.

 

[Zorro]

I use my Progress fixed at the level of close shave i want, but then often turn it down to "1" for safely cleaning up in tricky areas.

I don't do any sort of deliberate ramping up or down during the shave.

 

[huck1680]

The only "adjustable" I have is the Smart-Helix Apollo where the base plate can be turned over for more aggressive should you so prefer.

 

[donnie_arko]

The only adjustables I have used were the Ming Shi adjustables, I think one of them was a Futur Clone.

I'm not a fan of those razors, and never felt much urge to try any other adjustables.

 

[Shaun48]

Never understood the point of decreasing the number on an adjustable razor. I start on say a 3 and adjust upward. Surely adjusting down is counterintuitive?

I read it as decreasing with each pass, so that you have it on aggressive on the first pass, when you’re less likely to do damage and when your beard or whiskers are at their longest and decrease down on subsequent passes, so when against the grain you’re at, say 3 and can have a comfortable against the grain pass without issue, having mowed everything else down on more aggressive passes.

 

[OrangeSport]

I read it as decreasing with each pass, so that you have it on aggressive on the first pass, when you’re less likely to do damage and when your beard or whiskers are at their longest and decrease down on subsequent passes, so when against the grain you’re at, say 3 and can have a comfortable against the grain pass without issue, having mowed everything else down on more aggressive passes.

That is what most people seem to do, but it seems odd to me. I don't adjust razors during a shave, but if I did I would think getting nore efficient as the hairs get shorter would moke sense...

 

[ischiapp]

Gentlemen Style FB​

 

[huck1680]

Well, a slight adjustment to my previous comment. I now have a Pearl Flexi OC adjustable razor. An excellent shaver that will shave you very close. I was using it on 6 and was getting really close and comfortable shaves. No drama other than paying attention which is recommended at most if not all times. So I decided to dial it down to 4...still very efficient and comfortable. Hmm...I can see myself doing a bit more experimentation as I go forward.
Whereas I agree with the why bother aspect of an adjustable, as in once you've got the level that's best suited, it becomes non-adjustable for the most part.
BUT, this razor is solid brass, has a great non-slip handle, shaves very well and is not that expensive. It's a heavy razor that's kinda "bulldog" good-looking to be generous which amplifies its value (to me). Not a bad investment ny any means.
Cheers!