Cut throat help needed.

W

Will B

Messages
3
Hello all.
Couple months ago I decided to pick up a straight razor to cut down on the disposables I to use. However I still cant get a single shave out of it. It will cut longer hair(arm), albeit with quite a few passes to an ok standard but it does absolutely nothing to the daily stubble. If I describle my process is there any chance someone could pick out what im doing wrong?

The razor is a £50 evouloution island blade. It came unhoned so I purchaced a 1000/3000 stone and a 8000 stone. Watched loads of guides so Im pretty sure I have the right technique. One thing I did notice was the bevel was very uneven when I got the blade. One side had less then half the bevel(steeper angle) then the other. I didnt think that was right so I spend quite some time leveling it out. Both are now sharpened at about 30°.
I skimped on a strop and have been using an old leather belt.
I have varied my technique a lot but everytime I have had to use my disposable to get anywhere. Ive tried multiple and single passes. Wtg xtg atg none cut. Ive tried various pressures. I warm and lather my face well prior with a badger brush. My blade cuts paper pretty well and can clear a patch on my arm with a few passes.
Whats going wrong?
Bad blade?
Strop?
Badly sharpened?
Technique?

Thanks for any help, Will.
 
I don´t know about the Evolution Straight, but I suspect it´s made in China or Pakistan. If so these straights are known to be problematic to get an edge on. Take lots of skill. The angle of 30 degrees seems to me as a bit much. The blade should be laid flat to the stone and honed that way, this will ensure you the correct angle, maybe with a layer of tape to the spine. If the blade can be wiggled when pressing down toe or heal then the blade is most probably warped .
Here is what the invisible edge says:
"A straight razor, unlike a kitchen knife or hunting knife, doesn't need to have a strong blade - just a phenomenally sharp one. The cutting angle is typically 15 - 20 degrees (as opposed to a more ‘normal' 30 degrees) and is easily damaged. Fortunately, a razor has one task to perform - to cut hair as close to the skin as possible. It therefore doesn't get blunt as quickly as an ordinary knife used for heavier work and can usually be returned to working keenness on the strop. Eventually, though it will have to be honed. The frequency depends on factors such as how tough your beard growth is and how often you shave, but honing is needed only when the blade cannot be restored to shave-readiness on the strop. "
You could have a very nice vintage blade for 50 bucks.
PS: Don´t cut paper in any form. It will ruin the edge.
 
Last edited:
Will B said:
Drat ok. Thanks for the replys.
Cheesepiece is selling a razor in the b/s/t. Any good?
Click to expand...
That SR Cheesepiece is Selling..I Honed it..It has the Finest of Edges..The Pics Don't Do it Justice..Also..A Decent SR or Not..You are Unlikely to get a Shaving Edge when 1st Starting to Hone..Also..An 8 K Stone Whilst its Possible to Shave from is Far Removed from a Decent Finishing Hone..In Addition..A Lot of Cheap Stones & SRs are just Crap..Cutting Paper..Means..Zilch..:)

Billy
 
One of the worst phrases that accompanies straight razors on sites that are selling them is shave ready. Very few come shave ready and then the newbie comes along buys it and starts to try and learn the art of straight razor shaving. Early in, don't worry about honing. Learn shaving. Pay a respected person who hones, and maybe look for a local person who does. They may have a plethora amount of knowledge to share with you. Don't give up or in, stay at it. Price means little when buying a straight. Even the big name new manufacturers factory edge is not always that great. Hope this helps
 
Thanks everyone. I just recieved my new razor that should be good to go.
Also I contacted Evolution Island and they gave me a full refund. Perhaps I just had a odd one out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom