Disappointed by DE, what should I try?

R

realh

Guest
Hi,

I'm not satisfied with my current shave, and I'd like some advice on what I should try to improve it, so joined this forum. I should probably start by saying that I've got quite soft, sensitive skin, and coarse facial hair, so quite a difficult combination for shaving.

I've been wet shaving for years but only recently discovered that DE and straight razors are considered to give a superior shave, so I decided to give both a try, and see which I liked better, and I've probably made several mistakes. Being undecided, and not at all confident in being able to sharpen a proper straight razor, I bought a Silver Tone DE razor and a Coolcut razor which is like a straight razor but takes DE blades broken in half. What's the best known generic name for these, I've seen them referred to as "shavette"? Both had good reviews considering the price, and are all metal I also bought 100 Derby Extra blades, probably a mistake, I should have tried a few and decided which I liked best.

I quickly decided the straight razor was too difficult, and concentrated on the DE. I had already been using shaving soap and a brush for some time, preferring it to canned foam. Although the DE technique feels reasonably familiar compared to Gillette Mach 3 etc, I'm disappointed so far. Having to be more careful, especially in the tricky areas, is probably to be expected, at least until I hone my technique. I find it difficult to get rid of the hair on my chin and just under my lip, but the biggest problem is that I feel more sore afterwards compared to cartridges, whereas everyone seems to be saying there should be less razor burn with a DE.

I finished off my old tub of Wilkinson Sword soap and tried to go upmarket with an expensive tub of sandalwood cream from Taylor of Old Bond Street. It works into a much richer lather than the WS, but it seems to increase the razor burn. The smell reminds me of Imperial Leather, which I always found too drying, so perhaps this has the same problem?

The straight razor came with a pack of five WS blades, so I'll definitely try them in the DE, and probably some different cream. Are there other types of blade good for minimising burn?

Should I change the razor too, get a more expensive one? I only discovered by browsing this forum today that you can get adjustable ones, which might be a good idea. But I also suspect the more things I can change the harder it will be to find what works best for me.

Oh, one other thing. I think my stubble feels harsher than it used to when using cartridges, and although I feel I am getting a close enough save, I'm now wanting to shave every day whereas before I was content to shave only every other day and have designer stubble in between. Is the different feel to the stubble normal?
 
I'm no expert having only been at this for a few months, but the soreness might be down to technique. It took me a while to realise and I suffered from soreness until I did, but you mustn't use any pressure at all. Just the weight of the razor, also avoid the temptation to go over areas with no lather on them. I'm 3 months into DE shaving and only now feeling really comfortable with my technique. Stick at it, its rewarding when you get there and an enjoyable journey along the way. I also tried a lot of blades before I settled on a couple. Lots of people slate Derbys - I found them 'OK', but no more than that. There are loads better out there.
 
Start over, you'll find Derby's or the WS soap aren't generally liked and I don't really know about that razor, lots more specific advice will follow...
 
Welcome. You've asked several questions in one post here, and, for me to answer them all in detail, I'd need to write an essay! Also, I've never used a shavette (you're right to assume that's the generic term for these razors), but they are reckoned to be hard to use. However, a few pointers:

1. I've never heard of the DE razor you bought, and, though I don't want to sound arrogant, that isn't a good sign. You've also been using a brand of blades which most DE shavers find cause exactly the problems you describe.

2. You've gone from probably the worst readily-available shaving soap or cream there is (Wilkinson blue bowl) to a good cream; problem is TOBS sandalwood is highly-scented and can cause discomfort.

3. Your technique with the razor itself might not yet be properly developed. How many times have you used it so far, roughly?

4. You don't mention pre-shave prep. Are you shaving after a hot shower, or at least thoroughly washing your beard with a mild soap and plenty of hot water? If not, then your tough beard will be stiff and dry when you apply lather (I know as my growth is coarse and heavy).

5. Have you mapped the growth of your beard thoroughly? If you haven't, you might be unknowingly shaving across or even against the grain in some areas, especially your neck. Most men's growth has changes of direction in various locations.

6. Many people find the chin awkward to shave, as the angle you need to use changes dramatically in a short distance.

7. Changes in how your growth feels is quite common when switching to DE shaving. As the razor cuts the hair using only one blade edge, it slices it squarer and the regrowth therefore feels different.

You'll have plenty of other responses to your questions, and you might find that different people suggest different things. In shaving, what suits one person won't suit another - it's often referred-to by the acronym YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) as a way of suffixing advice with the caveat that you might not have the same results as the person offering the advice, even if you follow their suggestions to the letter.
 
Chris kinda covered the prep bit and some points of attention, I'll get more specific then.

1. Get a Merkur 37c. Yeah, it'll hurt in the beginning, but once you get a hang of it, there's nothing that can match its cutting power. I.e. - you'lle be doing fewer passes, hence less irritation.

2. Get some proper blades - Astras, Gillette 7 O'clocks or Sputniks do the trick.

3. Get some Speick cream instead - it's one of the most protective and easy to lather products out there. They do shave sticks too when you're ready. Taylor's won't ever come close.

4. Consider switching to cold water shaving.

Now, if after all of the above you're still not content with DE shaving as compared to cartridges, it's just not for you buddy. You will, however, have no problem moving quality gear with minimal loss here on the BST.
 
Greetings

The advice you have so far is IMHO spot on, it is sadly quite true that generally speaking the Sandlewood version of TOB's cream is the only one you hear shavers say they have sensitivity problems with, many also think it's the nicest scent, just sods law!

Another point that might be relevant is that soreness if not caused by sensitivity to something in the cream/soap/balm etc can be caused by scraping. Scraping is when the razor head is at a nearly 90 degree angle to the skin thus the blade is at the same angle and scraping rather than cutting; lift up the razor handle so the blade scythes the stubble at a shallow angle and try to keep your touch light.

Why not try a cheap but wonderful tube of Palmolive cream it's well loved by most people (even if the scent is dull) and I've yet to hear anybody say it's caused them any adverse skin reaction.

Good luck

Regards
Dick
 
Go to Boots, buy Boots own DE razor and a stick of Palmolive. Go home and have a shower, wash your stubble with some hair conditioner. Make a nice thick, creamy lather with the Palmolive and work well into your face. Take your time!
Shave slowly, with the grain DONT go over an area already shaved, take your time. Rinse the razor, re-lather your face and repeat, take your time! If as you say, you have sensitive/soft skin, rub whatever moisturiser you like into your stubble half an hour beforehand, it can make a big difference! Dont expect to get super smooth shaves straight away, dont be scared to finish off your shave with a cartridge razor, but keep at it for a couple of months and I promisse things will improve. If you get the Boots razor let me know, I will even make you a nice wee handle to go with it FOC, as long as you promisse to give it a good try.

daz
 
Thanks for all the helpful advice. I've tried to take it on board and feel a bit better after today's shave.

It's a shame I didn't know that Boots did a good DE razor, because I did look in my local branch before I bought one online, but didn't bother to ask the staff. I'm not sure they would have had one behind the counter, because it's a very small branch. And I can't find it on their website either.

For the products I mentioned above, I did try to add links, but I got 403 Forbidden errors, so I guessed the forum might have links disabled for new posters as spam prevention. They were all on Amazon UK; you'll find the razor by searching there for "Silver Tone razor". It has mostly good reviews, but the point made in the single 1* looks plausible.

Funnily enough, I was out buying Palmolive cream while NorfolkDick was making that recommendation. I generally get on well with stuff based on natural oils, and I knew it was readily available. A feeble perfume is probably more of an advantage than a disadvantage for me. I was also already impressed by one of their little cylindrical sticks of soap which I usually take when travelling, and has lasted years.

As for preparation, I like to shower last thing before bed (so I don't have to get dressed afterwards :)), but shave earlier in the evening. And I have a small bathroom, so the mirror stays unusable for quite a while after a shower. And a shower afterwards is an excellent way to calm the burn, I find. In future I'll have a more thorough prewash with (Dove) soap instead of just a rinse though.

Helveticum, what do you mean by cold water shaving? AIUI hot water is best for the prewash, but on an old tube of cream I once read the advice to use cold water for rinsing the razor, is that what you mean? I tried it, but it's a little uncomfortable in this weather.

I probably have been guilty of scraping instead of letting the razor glide smoothly. And I have tended to go over the rough bits again without applying more soap. I thin Although an even stubble all over is fine I think I'm too obsessive to leave patchy bits for anther day so going over the whole lot again sounds like a plan, as does using a cartridge razor for the second pass.
 
Hi and welcome to TSR, I am also new to DE shaving and what every one has said is true, my knowledge and advice compared to them is like a drop of water in an ocean, my upmost respect to them, i can only say that i have read and taken their advice on this forum and the result is awesome, you have to do your prep, take your time, no pressure on the razor let it do the work.

Experiment and enjoy, best things come to those who wait, i've been DE shaving for 6-8 weeks now and today was the best shave i ever had, i bought an old Gillette flare tip TTO from the Bay for £12.50 which gives a good shave, a pure badger brush also from the Bay for £18.00 no name on it but does the job, taylors Lavender cream, had a shower left the brush in warm water for 2-3 mins, put some Taylors soap cream in the middle of the brush as mentioned some where here on the forum, i got the lather right today (after reading here about lather) put the blade in the razor and off i went, i really enjoyed the shave, i can only imagine what i could achieve with a better razor and quality blades, 2 pass with and across was enough, cold rinse, Bluebeards after shave and balm.

i hope this helps and keeps you on the DE path, take it easy and find what works for you, enjoy and welcome
 
No, I mean take a proper cold shower, or if that's too much for you - at least wash your face with cold water, and then rinse cold between the passes.

P.S. you find that shower is a good way to soothe the burn? How about not getting any in the first place? ;)
 
realh said:
but shave earlier in the evening. And I have a small bathroom, so the mirror stays unusable for quite a while after a shower.
Click to expand...

I use Rain x anti-fog for that. I got it fom halfords out of the specials bin, I've added a link but you could probably find a cheaper alternative.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&productId=201119&catalogId=10151

And all the above advice is pretty solid.
Scott.
 
I wouldnt say the boots razor is good, but it will set a benchmark and it is cheap ie 2.99. pm your address and I will send you a handle to go with it, it makes a big difference. get a selection of blades to try, i will send you a few along with the handle as well.
get yourself a small hand held mirror, smear it in soap and leave it in the bottom of the shower while you do whatever. when you go for your shave the mirror should be rinsed off and will be warm, so no fog on it
 
Thanks for the offer of the handle. The Silver Tone I've got has a decent metal handle, so if they're fairly interchangeable that might work with a Boots one.

I still couldn't find it on Boots' own website except in a review, but Googling suggested it's a rebranded Gillette 7 O'Clock. There's also a Wilkinson Sword for under a fiver which looks similar, would that be worth a try in case I can't get a Boots one? Or make up my mind to stick with it and go straight for a Merkur or Edwin Jagger or something like that?
 
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