GEM HFT G-Bar help

BAW

BAW

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I recently bought a few vintage GEM-style razors, and debuted the first of them this morning - it was sold as a 1950s GEM Heavy Flat Top G-Bar:

HFT G-bar.jpg

I went very gently with it. Riding the cap didn't seem like an option because of the curve in the top, so I adjusted accordingly, using the bar, but still seeking an acute angle between blade and face. First pass north to south: comfortable, with a lot of feedback, but the rinse revealed that there wasn't a lot of beard reduction. Second pass XTG was similar. The first ATG pass was very smooth, but with a couple of weepers, which is a rare occurrence for me. A second pass ATG seemed to wrap it up – perfectly smooth face, no touch-ups required, weepers not weeping any more. Then I gradually felt irritation start to bloom in a few areas. I applied witch hazel then some balm, and the irritation is dying down, but I think I am missing something in the technique department.

Are there any vintage GEM-style razor users who could offer some advice?

I have a golden-plated push-button with a similar profile to the G-bar, and an MMOC waiting in the wings. I'd like to be able to enjoy them...

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
BAW said:
I recently bought a few vintage GEM-style razors, and debuted the first of them this morning - it was sold as a 1950s GEM Heavy Flat Top G-Bar:

View attachment 83685

I went very gently with it. Riding the cap didn't seem like an option because of the curve in the top, so I adjusted accordingly, using the bar, but still seeking an acute angle between blade and face. First pass north to south: comfortable, with a lot of feedback, but the rinse revealed that there wasn't a lot of beard reduction. Second pass XTG was similar. The first ATG pass was very smooth, but with a couple of weepers, which is a rare occurrence for me. A second pass ATG seemed to wrap it up – perfectly smooth face, no touch-ups required, weepers not weeping any more. Then I gradually felt irritation start to bloom in a few areas. I applied witch hazel then some balm, and the irritation is dying down, but I think I am missing something in the technique department.

Are there any vintage GEM-style razor users who could offer some advice?

I have a golden-plated push-button with a similar profile to the G-bar, and an MMOC waiting in the wings. I'd like to be able to enjoy them...

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Though I like the HFT in looks I find it to be rather on the mild side, and I never really get the best of Shaves with one.I tend to use MMs and 1912 to 1924.
 
The angle is ... put the cap flat you your face and pivot it just a little on the comb. The comb should not necessarily come into play but is there to stop you beaching the blade into your face. Glide the razor. No pressure.

Personna PTFE is a sound blade ... but first run can be on the rough side if you use pressure. Maybe that's where your irritation is coming from?
 
pjgh said:
The angle is ... put the cap flat you your face and pivot it just a little on the comb. The comb should not necessarily come into play but is there to stop you beaching the blade into your face. Glide the razor. No pressure.

Personna PTFE is a sound blade ... but first run can be on the rough side if you use pressure. Maybe that's where your irritation is coming from?
Click to expand...
Tomorrow morning I'll start with the cap as a guide, and pivot, as you describe; thank you.
The blade was on its second use, as I'd used it in the Wolfman WR3 OC when on passaround. It may be that I was just a little uncertain in my movements, which is seldom a good thing in my experience. At least tomorrow I'll have a definite approach.
 
BAW said:
A much nicer shave today. I think I was running off the bar yesterday, thinking the bevel in the cap meant I couldn't use the surface as a guide at all. Thank you, @pjgh.

Now to have a go with the MMOC...
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Brill! Couple more shaves and muscle memory will begin to set in ... you'll wonder how you ever managed to get a bad shave.

When you look at the profile of the MMOC to the Clog-Pruf to the Bullet Tip to the the HFT, you can most definitely see the lineage. Clicking with the angle on the HFT will most definitely help you get the best from the MMOC. The MMOC was the start of a new style of razor whose lineage can be seen all the way to the Contour (which incidentally was still being sold in the 1980s).

These razors are much more about letting the razor glide across your skin rather than dragging it by the comb or deliberately riding the cap.

Have fun!
 
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