Turned one
- Thread starter Jeltz
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Mikael said:
+1
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I have a fair stock of walnut 
This is a trial run before getting a good knot. I'll use this and see how it does with water, I deliberately made it thin walled to see if it would crack etc.
I finished it with cellulose sanding sealer, then polyurethane vanish then waxed it. No idea if that will work but I've secured the knot now with epoxy putty so we'll see.
This is a trial run before getting a good knot. I'll use this and see how it does with water, I deliberately made it thin walled to see if it would crack etc.I finished it with cellulose sanding sealer, then polyurethane vanish then waxed it. No idea if that will work but I've secured the knot now with epoxy putty so we'll see.
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Tidy!
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Nice turning - something I want to try when I get my lathe set up again.
I wonder, given the regular exposure to water, whether a better finish might be to oil the wood (once you've glued the knot in). If you oil it regularly over a period of time, it will penetrate into the grain of the wood and make it more water resistant, whilst still enabling it to breathe out any moisture that gets in. My own experience with synthetic sealers and varnishes is that they don't do very well with water. I suppose the closest analogy would be walnut gun-stocks which are generally oiled (rather than varnished) for similar reasons. Some oils, like tung oil, will dry out faster than others, and you can always thin them a little to help the oil penetrate into the wood.
I wonder, given the regular exposure to water, whether a better finish might be to oil the wood (once you've glued the knot in). If you oil it regularly over a period of time, it will penetrate into the grain of the wood and make it more water resistant, whilst still enabling it to breathe out any moisture that gets in. My own experience with synthetic sealers and varnishes is that they don't do very well with water. I suppose the closest analogy would be walnut gun-stocks which are generally oiled (rather than varnished) for similar reasons. Some oils, like tung oil, will dry out faster than others, and you can always thin them a little to help the oil penetrate into the wood.
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tritrek said:
That'll be Fido, fella. You can contact him on here, and you can check out his brushes here:
http://newforestbrushes.blogspot.com/
Lipsy
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Looks fine. DOn't care for the gold-coloured ring though. I would suggest getting the details a little sharper. Epoxy for setting the knot, and PU varnish for finish should both be fine. Make sure that no water can enter where outside and 'cup' meet (basically where the epoxy from setting the knot and the varnish finish meet and should overlap somewhat to seal the edge - remember, this is end grain, so would readily soak up water if left unprotected.