Wade and Butcher 6/8
- Thread starter angelix
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If it doesn't say England anywhere, then it was either not made for export (not the case with W&B) or it dates to pre-1891.
Another method is to go off of tang shape used during specific periods.
The only truly reliable method would be to date it using the stamp. I do not have that level of expertise.
Another method is to go off of tang shape used during specific periods.
The only truly reliable method would be to date it using the stamp. I do not have that level of expertise.
It loks like you will still have plenty of blade left even when you've taken the dings out.
One small tip - the pivot hole looks to be oversized which can cause movement when the blade is put into scales - try cutting a cotton bud to size. I've found that they are about the right diameter (or can be lightly sanded) and are just right for 1/16" rod.
One small tip - the pivot hole looks to be oversized which can cause movement when the blade is put into scales - try cutting a cotton bud to size. I've found that they are about the right diameter (or can be lightly sanded) and are just right for 1/16" rod.
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Good looking blade, I would be tempted to send the blade away for a regrind, could look fantastic as a custom job, plenty of meat on those wedges. I've seen some fantastic regrinds and custom work by Maximilian from over on the SRP especially on those old wedges.
Jamie
Jamie
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UKRob said:
Hi Rob,
Not off hand Rob, but I would imagine some of the custom knife makers on the British blade forums could quite easily handle a regrind on a old wedge for sure, you could also try a contact someone from the famous Sheffield shop, they may be able to put you in contact with some of their knife makers, here's a link.
http://www.sheffield-made.com/acatalog/Pocket_Knives.html
Jamie
- Thread Starter
- #9
Thanks for the suggestion.
I have not received it yet, so I first want to hold it in my hands and see what "he says" to me.
I am very keen to keep things the more "phenomenologically" correct... in other words I would like to rebuild it as it was made originally (I will dig the web hoping I can find some info) , nevertheless I always keep an open mind.
I have not received it yet, so I first want to hold it in my hands and see what "he says" to me.
I am very keen to keep things the more "phenomenologically" correct... in other words I would like to rebuild it as it was made originally (I will dig the web hoping I can find some info) , nevertheless I always keep an open mind.
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- 672
angelix said:
Nice blade.
1. It's not a wedge, it is a near wedge - there is a shallow hollow grind on it, so it does not require regrinding.
2. The mark on the tang is the standard W&B mark, so not helpful. The ones with a bow, 'special', 'Wade' on its own, 'Warranted Cast Steel', "W & S. Butcher' etc, all help with dating, as do etchings and engravings on the blade - but not in this case.
3. It pre-dates the McKinley tariff act, so is pre 1891.
The big old 'chopper' style, aka 'meatcleavers' were popular in the USA in the late 1840s - early 1860s, so I would say 1845 to 1865 at a guess. Part of the appeal was that they echoed the macho pioneering spirit of the time - big Bowie knives, big razors, and that the extra width of the blade gave scope for all sorts of etching and masonic details - I'm surprised this one hasn't got an etched design on it, to be honest.
The shape of the tail is not specific enough to be helpful, as that tang shape had emerged decades before and with some slight modifications gave way to what we all know today. If it was a stub, that would be different - but it isn't, and if it was it wouldn't be a W&B.
The tip shape is of no help either. Razors were hammered and ground into shape then, so that one could just have easily been a hollow tip or a barbers notch.
I wouldn't even entertain the idea of a regrind if I was you - keep it original, and make a nice set of horn scales to match it when - you get it. You made a great job on the other W&B, though this one is crying out for a lead wedge.
Regards,
Neil
- Thread Starter
- #11
Finally I got the chance of putting my hands on this old W&B, I polished it it 3 stages, but I am not convinced at all.
The pitting although not very deep is very hard to remove 100% without loosing , what I think, is a substantial ammount of metal.
on the other side, the more I look at it and the more i think that the polished blade is completely wrong.
I think I made a mistake , I suppose it could have been better if I left it "original" but with a new polished edge.
Maybe a dull blade is better? I dont know... any suggestions?
[attachment=12911]
The pitting although not very deep is very hard to remove 100% without loosing , what I think, is a substantial ammount of metal.
on the other side, the more I look at it and the more i think that the polished blade is completely wrong.
I think I made a mistake , I suppose it could have been better if I left it "original" but with a new polished edge.
Maybe a dull blade is better? I dont know... any suggestions?
[attachment=12911]
Attachments
I think you are right - too much polish just accentuates the pitting. Try knocking it back with wet and dry or even a very fine wire wool. There was a similar thread on here not long ago - link below.
http://www.theshavingroom.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=30142
http://www.theshavingroom.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=30142
Just stick it between a nice pair of scales, hone it and let the natural ageing process take it back to where it started 
IMO it was perfect before you started, but I think you realise that now?
The good thing is, it looks like it will be a perfectly usable razor that will give many more years of service.
Nice blade.
IMO it was perfect before you started, but I think you realise that now?
The good thing is, it looks like it will be a perfectly usable razor that will give many more years of service.
Nice blade.
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Send it to Michael Waterhouse I would definitely consider a regrind myself plus a new set of horn scales a nice flecked horn from Michael would be my choice.
- Thread Starter
- #15
regrinding it is not an option, i like to keep it with the same "design" as it was intended by the maker.
I regret having polished it, now it is a little bit to late!
Earlier this evening I did take some of the shine away.... now, I think , it looks a little better but it still needs some work...
I will try an experiment, if it works I will let you know what I did and post the results.
I regret having polished it, now it is a little bit to late!
Earlier this evening I did take some of the shine away.... now, I think , it looks a little better but it still needs some work...
I will try an experiment, if it works I will let you know what I did and post the results.
- Thread Starter
- #16
I think I found a trick.... I took a product that I use to remove rust and prepare bare steel for painting; it is a liquid used in the classic vehicles restoration.
when applied to bare steel it leaves a sort of dark grey patina very similar to an etching or anodizing process ;
once i got it back toa dark dull finish I then polished until I got a more apropriate finish
when applied to bare steel it leaves a sort of dark grey patina very similar to an etching or anodizing process ;
once i got it back toa dark dull finish I then polished until I got a more apropriate finish
