Adjustable? No thanks.

ischiapp

ischiapp

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Forio d'Ischia, Naples, Italy
A doubt pervades me every time I see recommending the Merkur Progress a neophyte.
Even worse with less balanced adjustable razor.

This doubt derives from my experience.
I had them, appreciated and sold them.
All, except the Merkur Futur that I don't use for its aggressiveness ... but I admire it as a design object.

At the beginning they are comfortable and bewitching.
You still don't know your preferences, maybe the technique is still unripe, the idea of having so many options, the undoubted charm of some vintage models (for me in descending order ... Gibbs Reglable # 17, Gillette Toggle, Fatboy , Black Beauty Super-109, Slim).

But over time, you understand that performance is related to geometry.
As the gap increases the arch should increase, and since it is impossible for now what increases is the exposure ... then the positive asset, that is the sensation (feedback) of the blade on the skin.

Not to mention the rigidity of the blade, produced only with fixed mechanisms (not movable) that support it strongly on both sides.
All at the expense of comfort.

The refinement of one's perceptions and preferences also plays an important role.
Today I know my ideal razor.
I'm not looking for alternatives that are too far away.

So personally I don't recommend an adjustable.
But above all I do not recommend it to a person with little experience.
I find it much more useful to concentrate one's efforts on a single razor, possibly balanced, for the time necessary (a few dozen shaves, better every day) to refine the technique and consistently achieve a good result.
Only then can you choose an alternative, in a more conscious way.


What is your experience about?
Here a poll to see how average of us use adjustable razor.
https://forms.gle/34cKfMM2kvw3TQFA7

Enjoy.
 
Although still much a beginner... the thing that's important for me is good blade clamping. The closer to the blade edge the better. This seems to be easier to achieve on CNC machined razors than on others, the exception being Rockwell 6S which is also excellent.

On adjustables constructed like Merkur Progress, clamping essentially depends only on a spring... so if going for an adjustable I would at least go for one where the blade is clamped as on a 3-piece - the ones where the mechanism comes from the Gibbs.

Anyway, probably the most important thing is really the technique, and I think that's much easier to learn with a fixed razor - it certainly was for me. An "adjustable" like 6S or 6C or Karve CB is useful to find the exposure that works best: I can now stick to fixed razors that have the right exposure for me.
 
The only adjustables I have used were the Ming Shi adjustables, I think one of them was a Futur Clone.

I'm not a fan of those razors, and never felt much urge to try any other adjustables.
 
Drew71 said:
Never understood the point of decreasing the number on an adjustable razor. I start on say a 3 and adjust upward. Surely adjusting down is counterintuitive?
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I read it as decreasing with each pass, so that you have it on aggressive on the first pass, when you’re less likely to do damage and when your beard or whiskers are at their longest and decrease down on subsequent passes, so when against the grain you’re at, say 3 and can have a comfortable against the grain pass without issue, having mowed everything else down on more aggressive passes.
 
Shaun48 said:
I read it as decreasing with each pass, so that you have it on aggressive on the first pass, when you’re less likely to do damage and when your beard or whiskers are at their longest and decrease down on subsequent passes, so when against the grain you’re at, say 3 and can have a comfortable against the grain pass without issue, having mowed everything else down on more aggressive passes.
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That is what most people seem to do, but it seems odd to me. I don't adjust razors during a shave, but if I did I would think getting nore efficient as the hairs get shorter would moke sense...
 
Well, a slight adjustment to my previous comment. I now have a Pearl Flexi OC adjustable razor. An excellent shaver that will shave you very close. I was using it on 6 and was getting really close and comfortable shaves. No drama other than paying attention which is recommended at most if not all times. So I decided to dial it down to 4...still very efficient and comfortable. Hmm...I can see myself doing a bit more experimentation as I go forward.
Whereas I agree with the why bother aspect of an adjustable, as in once you've got the level that's best suited, it becomes non-adjustable for the most part.
BUT, this razor is solid brass, has a great non-slip handle, shaves very well and is not that expensive. It's a heavy razor that's kinda "bulldog" good-looking to be generous which amplifies its value (to me). Not a bad investment ny any means.
Cheers!
 
MOdern adjustables are not designed the way they should be. Lets face it, the era of SHAVERS designing razors is rather over.. and the new companies are just re using existing parts and not understanding the interactions between certain parts.

Further more it doesnt help when 6 companies sell the SAME adjustable razor with different names... and users act like each razor is a completely different thing...
 
bandeauRouge said:
MOdern adjustables are not designed the way they should be. Lets face it, the era of SHAVERS designing razors is rather over.. and the new companies are just re using existing parts and not understanding the interactions between certain parts.

Further more it doesnt help when 6 companies sell the SAME adjustable razor with different names... and users act like each razor is a completely different thing...
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Whilst I agree on some points I very much dissagree on others. To state that era of designing razors is over feels erroneous to me. I'm just thinking of Tatara Muramasa and Blackland Osprey which are a culmination of design and engineering.
 
ATG said:
Whilst I agree on some points I very much dissagree on others. To state that era of designing razors is over feels erroneous to me. I'm just thinking of Tatara Muramasa and Blackland Osprey which are a culmination of design and engineering.
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Look on Amazon... there are about what 90 companies doing nothing more then selling merkur/jager/parker razors under their own name..
Seriously, the Parker Adjustable razor is being made in special finishes for some of these resellers..

Global Shave Club is making close copies of old gillette razors so my nod goes to them by default, despite not using one. I want the toggle replica and cant find it, but the others do not have the goods so to speak.

Ive tried the merkur adjustable, current production, even a 20 dollar copy...
Head geometry was not designed for shaving for normal people. I have my fatboy setup on 5. The merkur style on 1, has a harshness and irritation level that my Fatboy on 9 cannot match..
 
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bandeauRouge said:
Ive tried the merkur adjustable, current production, even a 20 dollar copy...
Head geometry was not designed for shaving for normal people. I have my fatboy setup on 5. The merkur style on 1, has a harshness and irritation level that my Fatboy on 9 cannot match..
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My Progress doesn't have any harshness or irritation level. It needs a very slightly different shaving angle to my fixed head razors but it gives a fantastically smooth shave always.

The longevity of the Progress production run (60+ years ?) would suggest they probably got the design just right for "normal people".
 
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