Look what I found

B

Bemused

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101
Look what I found at an antique fair

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On the tang it says defiance.
I paid £12 was it too much?
Any idea of its age or if it could be a decent blade,

Tony
 
Looks like a nice hallow Sheffield blade to me, I think you did good (there´s allways a small risk it has some constuction problems, but it´s hard/ or you can´t tell from pics, often when you hone it you notice stuff like that).
 
I don't have a razor hone but have touched the blade up a little with an engineers diamond hone which is a little to course for the job but it has removed a couple of pits from the blade edge leaving a nice clean straight edge.

I used the same hone to remove some heavy pitting from the back of the blade and the back now just needs polishing to restore.

I have rubbed the whole with some scotch bright and turpentine and its has cleaned up quit well but I think the scales will need to come off to allow a good buffing. The scales are in great condition with no chips at all.

So I would appreciate a recommendation for a useable hone and advice on removing the rivets from the scales.
I expect the rivets have to be hand made or is there a source of supply.
The rivets in this sit in cup washers.
 
Bemused said:
I don't have a razor hone but have touched the blade up a little with an engineers diamond hone which is a little to course for the job but it has removed a couple of pits from the blade edge leaving a nice clean straight edge.

I used the same hone to remove some heavy pitting from the back of the blade and the back now just needs polishing to restore.

I have rubbed the whole with some scotch bright and turpentine and its has cleaned up quit well but I think the scales will need to come off to allow a good buffing. The scales are in great condition with no chips at all.

So I would appreciate a recommendation for a useable hone and advice on removing the rivets from the scales.
I expect the rivets have to be hand made or is there a source of supply.
The rivets in this sit in cup washers.
Click to expand...

Looks a good one from the pics cant see anything that stands out wrong with it but you never know till you see these things close up, removing the chips with you diamond stone was a good idea, but I hope you applied some tape on the spine to stop flattening it and putting a lot of hone wear on it as it did not appear to have much, the only problem with taking the pits out on the spine with your diamond hone is that you now have to get rid of the scratch pattern left from it. and from personal experiences the diamond hones can leave a hell of a deep scratches, you are going to have to proberly go down to 80 grit wet and dry and work up to at least 600 before they can be polished out (maybe even higher) but all this depends on how course you diamond stone is and also how well used it is as it obviously will be finer if its well used
 
Missed out to answer your question :oops:

On hones you are best looking at neils sticky, you are really looking for a 1k, 4k and 8k to get a shaving edge but a finsher above 8k is nice but not needed just to get it shaing.
As for removing the pins I use a pair of flush cutters that take them off nicely then just use 1/16 brass rod and a hammer to peen the rod, there should be a stiky or at least a good tutorial in the restoration section. If not pm me and will look out some for you.
 
Thanks for the tips but I am afraid I have had a rather large cock up and dropped the razor.
I am sure its now beyond repair, gee a short while ago I was such a happy bunny and now I feel both stupid and sick.
I took the razor down to the workshop for a quick session on the polishing mop and dropped the blade which now has a large part missing.

Perhaps in a week or so, maybe a year or so I will be able to think of something positve about this. :x :( :(

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It could still be honed out but would eat in to the stabiliser so that would have to be re-shaped, a lot of work for something thats not of sentimental value, as it will never be as good as it was, if you are going to hone out chips or hone in general on diamond plates I always apply at least one layer(more to take out large chips as makes it quicker) of electrical tape over the spine to prevent excessive wear to it and cause even from a 1200 dmt you cant get to the scratches out by the time you have honed through the rest of the stones up to 8000 you can still see the scratches from the 1200. If you are serious I would keep the blade to practice honing on and remember no pressure or you end up with uneven hone wear and bevel.
 
Well my first foray into restoring has ended badly but a lot has been learned, and I do believe lessons learned the hard way are the best lessons learned and as you say have a work horse to learn some new skills on
 
My commiserations, easily done though. Another possibility is to crop the blade, thus avoiding the need for breadknifing off a load of the width, and stiffening the blade up. The danger with that of course is drawing the temper, but it can be done with care and patience. There's a bit of a fashion for shortened razors at the moment, for some reason.
 
Hmm cropping sounds like a good idea for saving the razor, better than taking at least 1/8 from the width.
It just happens that the blade engraving could be saved.
Perhaps I could fashion a water bath around the blade to help keep it cool although very steady grinding with complete and frequent dips in the bosh sounds less silly.
I may try touching the end on a 2" carbide belt I have, the belt has speed control s I could set it nice and slow. Must remember to take a template of the end section as I imagine the non Symmetry of the end is for a reason.
i will do some tests and trials so as to not bugger this up any more.

Thanks
 
Mist is very good as a coolant for this sort of thing, or so I'm told. Got a stirrup pump? You know, the kind of thing you use for spraying apple trees. The end shape doesn't matter, but if you go for a spike or a French point rolling the tip a bit when honing will make shaving safer (a bit...).
 
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