Cleaning and maintaining a brush in good condition

[fozz77]

I sold the chubby , but im picking up what your laying down. However, the chubby will pick up more water due to the shear volume of hair. But, it will not absorb it.

It is easier to dry a badger brush than a boar IMHO. Using the same routine with a chubby 3 or semogue 1305 ( big difference in brush size )ie 4-5 whips in the shower cubicle & a couple of swirls & paint strokes on a dry towel & sit on the side of the sink, both on their handles. 24hrs later, next shave, the chubby is bone dry, the 1305 is not.

A gent by the name of Zach who is a respected authority on brushes on other forums state that - Badger is non porous, boar is porous.

 

[antdad]

Tis true my Boreal is still rather damp from yesterday's use, damper than a badger brush would normally be but all hair is porous to some degree.

I would have thought that all things being equal the cross sectional area of a hair has the largest affect on water absorption rates but like comparing potato chips and fry's the fry will absorb more oil per unit area and be easier to dry and crisp up...a fair analogy?

 

[SirPrize]

A gent by the name of Zach who is a respected authority on brushes on other forums state that - Badger is non porous, boar is porous.

Not wishing to over-simplify, but is this why boar brushes seem to make a bigger hole in the soap than badger?

 

[hunnymonster]

A gent by the name of Zach who is a respected authority on brushes on other forums state that - Badger is non porous, boar is porous.

Do I need/want the hair to absorb more water? I'd have thought not - I want the water to mix with the soap/cream, not be wasted in wetting the brush. Conversely I don't want a synthetic brush because it absorbs near enough zero water.

Would it also imply that a boar brush would be more likely to get "gummed up" with product - because more product gets into the porous structure of the brush.

 

[hunnymonster]

Not wishing to over-simplify, but is this why boar brushes seem to make a bigger hole in the soap than badger?

I initially started with the opposite impression, but have since revised it to soft soaps and creams get eaten faster by badger, hard soaps faster by boar. I assumed it was down to the greater number and surface area of hairs picking up more product on the softer bristles (but when the product is harder, then the stiffness of the hair plays a bigger part)

 

[antdad]

Not wishing to over-simplify, but is this why boar brushes seem to make a bigger hole in the soap than badger?

I initially started with the opposite impression, but have since revised it to soft soaps and creams get eaten faster by badger, hard soaps faster by boar. I assumed it was down to the greater number and surface area of hairs picking up more product on the softer bristles (but when the product is harder, then the stiffness of the hair plays a bigger part)

I agree with that, it also explains why pre softening a hard soap with a little water helps a great deal when using a badger.

 

[hunnymonster]

I agree with that, it also explains why pre softening a hard soap with a little water helps a great deal when using a badger.

Or why it takes slightly more effort to load the brush if you don't pre-soften (like me)

 

[fozz77]

Tis true my Boreal is still rather damp from yesterday's use, damper than a badger brush would normally be but all hair is porous to some degree.

I would have thought that all things being equal the cross sectional area of a hair has the largest affect on water absorption rates but like comparing potato chips and fry's the fry will absorb more oil per unit area and be easier to dry and crisp up...a fair analogy?

Yes, if they are equal. But, are they??

 

[fozz77]

Would it also imply that a boar brush would be more likely to get "gummed up" with product - because more product gets into the porous structure of the brush.

Good question. I would say yes, especially if the brush were not rinsed properly.

A well cleaned paint brush lasts well in the right conditions. A well used paint brush, not cleaned so well, will quite quickly need attention ( big soak in thinner ) to cleanout the gummed up paint toward the handle.

I have seen badger brushes for sale on forums that look filthy too me as well......All gummy & cruddy above the handle.

Interesting.

 

[neocaligatio]

Dishwasher







Actually I just rinse mine under a tap then give it a good shake and quick rub over handle with a towel. It's a wooden handle and other than once a month/every two months it gets a wipe over with some lavender oil and a bit of my other half's shampoo

 

[henkverhaar]

Shake it dry and let it stand.

Don't worry about standing it on its base - it won't ruin it - that is just something manufacturers tell you to get you to buy a stand.

Badger hair and human hair is quite similar so when your brush doesn't seem to be holding as much water as it used to you can give it a quick once-over with your good lady's shampoo and conditioner.

Not entirely. The hairs may be clogged with soap scum. In that case, you'll need to dissolve the scum (actually insoluble calcium and magnesium salts of the soap fatty acids) with a mild acid, such as acetic acid (vinegar) or citric acid.

Henk

 

[N_Architect]

Cleaning a brand new brush

Most of you will probably either have their own way of doing this or will have read other threads here or in other forums.

Nonetheless, as I had to clean two new brushes which I received today, I took the opportunity of taking pictures. So here is what I do, with pictures and words. I hope this may help someone who any day will look for an opinion on how to do that.

My base on this is threads and info I have read in a number of forums (including TSR of course) over the last 2 years. Please feel free to correct or add information as you may feel it is necessary doing so.

The setup:

1. Two (2) Frank Shaving [FS] brushes; one is with Best hair (the Persian Jar handle-styled one) and the other with Finest hair (the one with the longer and thinner handle).

2. Dishwasher (hand) liquid.

3. A cup or mug to let the brush soak in the water/dishwasher solution.

4. A shaving soap or cream.

5. A towel.

The process:

Open the tub till warm water runs off it:
(the water should preferably never be too hot when soaking a brush)

Pour some dishwasher liquid into one cup or mug:

(and/or for the second brush in my example)

Take the cup under the tub and fill it 10-20% with warm water:

Stir a bit, then place the brush inside the cup as shown, follow by adding water and stirring again:

The dishwasher liquid after stirring will give some foam and will start to 'wash' the brush that sits into the cup. This is greatly assisted by more stirring or even by agitating the brush inside the cup:

(or for the second brush in my example)

You can even do a gradual 'pumping up/down' motion with the brush:

Now let the brush(es) stay and soak there, for a period of 10' to 20':

(or)

 

[missingskin]

Post shave rinse the brush with bristles standing directly under the flow of water rather than rinsing around exterior of the knot, that way you will be sure to remove all the unused lather.

A gentle squeeze and shake and couple of rubs on a towel to help it along.

+1 on that one

 

[fatboy1971]

I give it a shack the rub it on a towel the blow dry it brushing it with a side parting and a flick

 

[Fido]

I don't discriminate!

 

[Mikael]

Post shave rinse the brush with bristles standing directly under the flow of water rather than rinsing around exterior of the knot, that way you will be sure to remove all the unused lather.

A gentle squeeze and shake and couple of rubs on a towel to help it along.

Spot on how I do it. When I shake it a couple of times I partly hold the hand over/under the bristles, so the knot base doesn't take the full force by it self.