I feel the need, the need for lead

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803
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Spalding, Lincs
I'm a pencil user.
I'm a design engineer by trade, always drawing.
Pencil is permanently behind my right ear (although I'm the only one in my office that does that).
Yet the pencils I have at work are just the cheapest we can buy. I usually have a couple on the go, chewed ends and usually shattered leads.
My wife did buy me a really nice Faber Castell (sp) chubby pencil a few years ago. Was really nice to use but as it was triangular it didn't sit behind my ear too well.

I have a few carpenters pencils kicking around at home in the shed and garage with knife sharpened points (naturally) and my boy gets a kick out of watching me use a knife to sharpen a pencil just as I did watching my dad do it.

And a few Ikea stubbies around the house. I usually come away with a pocket full.

So, now I think I need to move up in the world of pencils. Do I get a few more Faber and look a bit poncey in the office?
Or do I go mechanical. If so I need recommendations. Retro / vintage suggestions are more than welcome.

The pen is mightier than the sword.... but what about the pencil?
 
I've got a pentel 0.7 P207 that i've had for quite a bit well about 20 years at least and it still works great couldn't have asked for a more reliable pencil and its still being sold today...
 
Dave.B said:
I've got a pentel 0.7 P207 that i've had for quite a bit well about 20 years at least and it still works great couldn't have asked for a more reliable pencil and its still being sold today...

Likewise - a Pentel P205 (0.5mm) & P207 (0.7mm) here that I've had since I was at school... the P203 (0.3mm) seems to have vanished though (although I did just find a box of leads for it - not a single plastic container - a box of 10 containers) so I may have to reinvest in a P203...
 
I have a few Pentels mechanicals in various lead sizes and a Golden axe .7 ......I love 'em all, consistent line......Always....I've had 'em for years and used them everyday, and they've never let me down.
 
I just bought a Kuru Toga and it is the best mechanical pencil I have used. It has a clutch system inside which rotates the lead every time you lift from the paper. Net result is a cone point rather than a chisel point on the lead. The line thickness always stays the same because of this and the lead is less likely to break. Of course you never need to sharpen either. Ihave tried quite a few mechanical pencils and this is the only one I would recommend buying now.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kuru-Mechanical-Pencil-black-barrel/dp/B002RDV4HG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338459719&sr=8-1

I went for the roulette model from cult pens.

http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Uni-Kuru-Toga-Roulette-Pencil-05mm.html
 
send me a pm and ill send you a shiney rotring 0.5 pencil...little use probably less than 50 yds

if any good maybe send summit back in return...altho not necessary
 
I might have to try that rotating jobby.

I have and like this: http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Faber-Castell_TK4600_Clutch_Pencil.html
 
Boab said:
I just bought a Kuru Toga and it is the best mechanical pencil I have used. It has a clutch system inside which rotates the lead every time you lift from the paper. Net result is a cone point rather than a chisel point on the lead. The line thickness always stays the same because of this and the lead is less likely to break. Of course you never need to sharpen either. Ihave tried quite a few mechanical pencils and this is the only one I would recommend buying now.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kuru-Mechanical-Pencil-black-barrel/dp/B002RDV4HG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338459719&sr=8-1

I went for the roulette model from cult pens.

http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Uni-Kuru-Toga-Roulette-Pencil-05mm.html

Would these use the same 0.5 lead I use in my Parker Jotter?

Which by the way I buy in from Hong Kong - inc. shipping cheaper than my High Street shop.
 
It has nano's in it apparently to make it stronger. I am sure your current stock will be fine Peter. Where do you buy from in HK?
 
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