Big Boars brush restores.

BigBoar said:


Got some room on my bench. Just waiting on knots.



Very nice restore on both - especially the Rubberset 4. What did you use on that one?

I don't know if it's the angle, but the loft on the wooden one seems much too high - well for my liking anyway.
 
Cheers guys, the knot on the wooden one is just a temp, whilst I wait for a boar knot. As it only just takes a 19mm knot it does look a little high.

The 400 was a full clean/degrease followed by hand sanding starting with 240 dry upto 12k wet, with white spirit wash after every grit.

Finished with buffing wheel and polish.

Removing the knot on the 400 was particularly smelly!
 
I've found that no matter how careful you are with wiping the aluminium brushes after use, they tarnish and need regular re-polishing. I tried a tip of applying car wax polish - it made a slight difference, but the same problem occurs.

If you have any other suggestions let us know.
 
You can get nano coatings now for all sorts of finishes. Automotive is one area where they're popular - glass, wheels, paintwork, that sort of thing. Look into a company called G|Techniq - I think they were about the first to market and have all sorts of finishes. The chap who runs the company is approachable and knowledgeable.
 
Nano coatings - wasn't that something off Mork and Mindy?

On the basis (forecast) that you will undoubtably be the owner of one of these at some time, and given your undisputed knowledge of all things shiny, how about talking to your pal and giving a recommendation.

My Rubbersets get to sit in a bowl of hot water for a couple of minutes - not fully immersed of course, but enough that maybe the heat is the cause.
 
These coatings get to sit on wheels, under-bonnet parts, all sorts which get a LOT hotter than your brush will, even with your demon whisking technique!

I'll drop him a line and see what he thinks ...

What the coating will do is put a nano sized layer of sealant onto the surface, microscopically levelling it out and producing a pure flat surface which NOTHING can adhere to. Water does a full lotus effect, whole round bead, soap will not wash it off. To remove it needs to be sanded off. To get the best out of the product, the knot should be removed so you can seal around the very top.

Here's their plastic coating on one of my old cars - the initial surface was washed and then scrubbed with neat IPA first.

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... it goes mad shiny and will stay like on automotive surfaces (think: dust, salt, rain, washing, wind) for 12-18 months without issue. On a brush handle in soapy water, I think that would increase exponentially. The actual coating is not especially thick, despite what it looks like ... well, it's nano in thickness, but it does make the surface very slick since it is microscopically perfectly flat. That may be a negative.
 
400-3, this is my brush. Has some seriously deep pitting which I was loathe to remove. So I left em in to add character. I took this handle to 3600 grit then jumped straight to 12k, foregoing the buff and polish. The result is a deep 'steel' shine, not the standard chrome look.

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I understand the problems with ally brushes requiring frequent polishing, tad anoying but the formation of oxides is unavoidable. Coatings all have downsides. You could always get it electroplated, but you'd need it done in a tank by a pro.

Greg.
 
BigBoar said:
Boar knots finally arrived! So finished my little rubberset. 19mm boar set at 50mm, don't think I'll have to worry about backbone!

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All set fine, has a serious amount of backbone. One for the triple milled soaps...
 
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